Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Black Orpheus - 5.10a popular Average Rating : 4.32/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
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Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: coryberkebile on 2010-03-19
(View Climbing Log)
Great route. Fast and moderate.
This was climb 1 of a link-up day to then climb Levitation 29. The route is super moderate all the way up to the "crux" which is protected by bolts. I really never felt a crux. I feel that the route is 5.9 and no harder, but one of my favorites.
Added: 2012-01-19
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: imarcus on 2011-11-04
(View Climbing Log)
Trip Report
http://thrillseekersanonymous.com/2011/12/03/santa-aint-up-this-chimney/
Added: 2011-12-04
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-04-18
(View Climbing Log)
Very Fun
The first three pitches are fun and very cruiser. The middle section is a little boring and runout and then the last section is super fun except for the last pitch which is a little heady because of the rock although it protects ok. Simul-climbed most of this in 2 hours before going to do Rainbow Buttress. Really only one move that might be 10a.
Added: 2011-04-18
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: sailskisurf on 2010-12-10
(View Climbing Log)
10 hrs car to car
Had good pace, simul climbed the from the 5.5 to that belay under the big roof. And didn't have any mix ups on the approach or descent. Unless you've done the descent before I'd allow a couple extra hours. Start early in the winter!
Added: 2010-12-10
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | R |
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Onsight ascent by: sherrilewis on 2009-11-20
(View Climbing Log)
Excellent and Epic
Every pitch was enjoyable and engaging in some way, even the easier pitches in the middle as they involved some routefinding and were a refreshing pause before the excitement to come on the upper pitches. The 5.9 corner pitch before the "crux pitch" was sustained and burly compared to the crux, and the 5.6 lieback pitch was intense(easily holds a couple 5.8 moves, IMO). We took a #4 and found plenty of placements for it. Our top-out coincided with sunset AND a 55mph wind storm which made the descent scary and arduous. After nearly being swept off the Painted Bowl slabs, we ended up at the rap station atop the Plate of Fate route(near "There and Back Again") and found signficant, recent rockfall all around the anchor.(Dangerous!) The wind wreaked havoc w/our rappels and had to hike back in the next day to retrieve them by climbing Plate of Fate.
On Black Orpheus, I led: p2, 6, 7, 9, 11 as per Handren's pitch breakdown.
On Black Orpheus, I led: p2, 6, 7, 9, 11 as per Handren's pitch breakdown.
Added: 2009-11-21
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: satch on 1992-11-16
(View Climbing Log)
lots of great 5.8 climing
fantastic. Suggest taking 2 ropes for the rap and at least 2 #1 and .75 camelots. 10a section is very short.
Added: 2009-11-16
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Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: bennydh on 2009-01-30
(View Climbing Log)
Fun Route
This route seemed alright, for about the first half. It immediately improves at the 5.8 R(which isn't an R) following the 5.0/4th class slabs.
Added: 2009-02-03
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Red Point ascent by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-09
(View Climbing Log)
practice run
practice run for linkup with Mtn Beast- 3.5hrs on rte.
Added: 2008-12-09
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: 0x2102 on 2008-04-14
(View Climbing Log)
.
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Added: 2008-04-20
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: justroberto on 2008-04-14
(View Climbing Log)
-
Led P3,4,7,8 & 11
Added: 2008-04-19