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Ascent Notes for: Jubilant Song - 5.8 Average Rating = 4.42/5 Average Rating : 4.42/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: andrea37 on 2011-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Did it in 5 Pitches

Hike in/out took us closer to 1.5 hours. It was super windy and started snowing while we were racking up at the base. However, we were in the sun and protected from the wind for most of the climb.

Added: 2011-04-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not bad

May be a little overhyped. I have done a good amount of RR classics and this climb has only two good pitches. We did the climb as 5 pitches combining 1&2, 4&5, 6&7 with a 70m rope (1&2 is still a stretcher). Did not do the final waterstreak as it was wet but it looks interesting. Bring a #2 BD nut to have any kind of pro for the thin move above and right of the roof on P5.

Added: 2011-03-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fluffystuff on 2010-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Super fun

The crux roof move was only about a foot long, but it was strenuous. Was really happy to have a #4 cam to protect the second on the move.

Added: 2010-11-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: 858jason on 2010-03-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars None

None

Added: 2010-03-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sherrilewis on 2009-10-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome

I led p's 2, 4, 5. This route has been on my list for a while--I am a Joe Herbst fan--and I was not disappointed. It was fun to stay in the widening crack on the second pitch (escape onto the face was an option). The roof traverse starts out "mellow"(ie, decent holds and reasonable pro where you want it) though still heady due to the sheer scale of the thing. I stayed high on it for most of it's length(only one spot felt run out to me) and dropped down just before the smaller roof where most folks build the hanging belay. Rope drag was not an issue as I had used long slings, so I pulled this small roof(spicy!) and continued up the thin corner, linking p4 and p5. My partner finished up the last two pitches(we exited before the final section of water streak because of we weren't excited about fall potential it posed). We did this climb on a cloudy, 60 degree day with wind gusts of 29mph; we climbed and belayed in our puffy coats and hats and were never uncomfortably cold. Approach took 1.5 hrs, climb took 5hrs, descent took 1hr(in the daylight), walk back to the car in just under 1 hour(daylight). Be sure to watch for the cairns on both the descent and trail back to the car. Very helpful.

Added: 2009-10-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: miladugga on 2009-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Remote feel

Took 1 rope, decided to bail after 2nd pitch due to weather, rope stuck, had to climb out, summitted as it got dark, took 7 hours with 1 headlamp to find our way back to the car. Nice climb, but be prepared. Didn't se another soul all day.

Added: 2009-03-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: brianmb99 on 2009-01-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun route

The traverse under the roof is sweet.

Added: 2009-01-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2008-12-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Jubilant Song

With Ben below. Enjoyed his company. The roof traverse is spicy to say the least. Two variations. Folks going high and over and folks staying lower on better rock. Lower is less protection, but less swing as well if you set it up right. The pieces Ben is referring to that came out are two nuts in pathetic sand cracks on the way over the blank varnish lower down. The critical pieces you want on that traverse is a bomber #3 up early, down climb, cross, then back up to sink a bomber .5 before getting to your belay. The Roof was nothing in comparison. You finish just like Hot Fudge Thursday on the 7th pitch. Good climb for a short day out, a tad chilly as to be expected. When checking over the summit log, we saw where I was only 2 days off from one year apart between Hot Fudge and Jubilant. I guess I like Windy Peak in December.

Added: 2008-12-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: benkilgore on 2008-12-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome climb but be aware of the ridiculous sandbag.

Did this with Dow Williams, who did all the leading. In the sun all day meant it was warm enough for a T-Shirt for me, although I did tender up my forearms with all the friction.

The drive in from the highway is only for vehicles with 4wd and lots of clearance. The approach took us 1.5 hours. The climb took 5 hours. The descent took 2.5.

Climbing was moderate and simple until the roof traverse. That was runout, though Dow did not follow the bottom of the roof but instead the edge 15-20' below. All the gear came out so I had a nice 60 foot pendulum staring at me when I did it.

The first 5.8 pitch is really just one move, pulling the roof. It's more difficult the taller you are...and if you're wearing a pack. The rest of the pitch is maybe 5.5.

However, there is a 5.9+ sequence on the second to last pitch. I don't know if holds broke off or what, but rating the "water streak" bit 5.7+ (my topo says 5.8) is a joke. Be prepared, it's not just one move but a sequence.

Why o why is there one solitary 1/4" bolt on this climb? Useless and manky.

Added: 2008-12-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rocket_scientist on 2007-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars -

Great route to escape the crowds. Fairly adventurous, with lots of elevation gain (including the approach), without really feeling that committing.

Added: 2008-05-20

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