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Ascent Notes for: Sysiphus Summits - 5.10d popular Average Rating = 3.86/5 Average Rating : 3.86/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars nice climbing

I'd agree that some of the bolting is not great. That said, the route is great fun and took a lot of effort to make. Good job. I also thought the 10D grade was probably about right, but expect a solid 10 D, and don't expect to be able to go bolt to bolt at a lower grade. 6.5 hours on route. After pitch 12, the route is 3/4 done.

Added: 2013-06-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: USnavy on 2011-08-24 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Just okay

There is really only one thing that comes to mind when I think of this climb. Bolt placements... They are absolute shit. In ten years of climbing I have never seen a sport climb with so many botched placements, its almost disgraceful. Its clear that no thought was put into where to place the bolts when this thing was rap bolted. The bolts are often off route, it forces you to take the hardest possible path up an otherwise easy section. If you climb this and are thinking, "crap I am off route", you probably are not off route, just the bolts are.

The movement on the route is okay, there are some fun slab pitches, but there is also a lot of choss/ loose rock in sections. I brought a 9.4mm and wished I had not, there is a fair amount of sharp rock and I was a bit on edge running my skinny over a bunch of rock knives. There is a lot of ledge/ slab fall potential so make sure you're solid at the grade if you're leading.

The route can get very cold, even in August so bring lots of clothes! In the end I would say its (barely) worth doing, but certainly not worth doing twice.

Added: 2011-08-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2011-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sisyphus Summits

With Zach, the 2nd desert partner I took up Sisyphus...just that good of a route and right out our back door. Beat Joe and my time from several years ago, but not by much, 7.5 from bottom to top. My notes are decent, but I struggled on a pitch I had never led on this route yet, the 10th pitch on the topo, a 5.10c that got the best of me. No issues with any of the other 5.10c's or d's. Either I was tired or will have to change which pitch I think is the crux. Climbing straight with Zach for several days now, pretty sure I am just wasted. Beautiful day! Short sleeves on the summit

Added: 2011-07-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sisyphus Summits

Great day out with Joe, a bit cold as we had a long rain system settled in Canmore, but we completed it in good style. Took a 70m rope and turned 21 published pitches into 10 total. First traverse pitch, then we doubled up every pitch after and each got one triple pitch in. I got the 5.10d's, but we both agree the crux was pitch 4, which is marked 5.10c on the topo. We have both led it on separate occasions and both feel the slab moves on this pitch are the crux. Great route really, finished in style...some good pitches up high just when you think it might turn to trash. Last four pitches kind of pleasantly surprised us. All anchors and bolts in decent shape, summer 2009. Sure, some bolts could have been better placed, but all in all a great project. If you want to catch more ledges than hanging belays, maybe don't combine pitches 2-3 like we did and you should be set up to catch the ledge belays better by doing all double pitches after that through the lower tough climbing. A Bow Valley classic in my opinion.

Added: 2009-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dropkicked on 2007-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars My quads hurt

Well I think my slab climbing improved from the base of this behemoth to the summit. Good and fun but I would not repeat. Not sure if the high steps killed the quads or the run down to the parking lot from the summit. Also this is the first route ever to have pumped my shoulder.

Added: 2007-09-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kojo on 2006-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Cold

Bring lots of warm clothes if you do it early season.

Added: 2007-06-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: journeyman28711 on 2006-07-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

In response to someone's request for beta on this route:

Finding the route was a little problematic (not enough coffee?)- we walked right past it. Follow the scree trail up to where you'll see a very prominent rock cairn. Turn around and walk back about 30 meters (?) or so and look for the traversing bolt line (near a much smaller cairn)- that's it!

Rock quality is sometimes poor, especially on the first few pitches. I pulled out an undercling hold the size of a brick about 25 ft. into the first pitch- “Whoa, shit, this will be interesting". It gets better higher up, but be prepared for loose holds along the way. Also, especially if there is a party above you, be prepared for certain rockfall- same for your belayer. You’ll come across areas where it’s just about impossible not to cause this due to your movements and/or that of the rope. If you climb this route without a helmet please include me in your life insurance policy.

Weather can sneak up on you from the other side of the mountain. We were lucky with no rain except during our approach (it rained every other day that week at least for a short time while we were climbing in the Canmore area). Because of the wind the rock dried quickly. But… we got hail on the final pitch. The easiest and shortest of all the pitches (friction) suddenly made difficult with frozen ball bearings underfoot. Also, bring warm clothing. You’ll be in the shade most of the time and it tends to be windy. I wanted to keep from hauling the extra weight, but soon realized my mistake and really regretted not having more layers.

Bailing Out- The pitches are half rope lengths with rap rings, so we brought one 10.5mm rope with the idea that we could rap every pitch if the weather forced us off.

Bolting- I was comfortable with the number of bolts and runout on easier sections, BUT was perplexed by the placement at times, forcing very long reaches off to the side, making the clips, for me anyway, sometimes the hardest part of the climb.

Difficulty- Well, you know this is subjective. I agreed to lead all of the pitches except for two 5.9s, and the final pitch which was hit by hail halfway into her lead (sorry Celeste, not my fault). It seemed pretty stout at times, but not underrated. I’d like to see how it feels some other time while swapping leads and in warmer weather (or clothes). But on that day it was a cold endurance fest with what seemed like a lot of sustained 5.10 climbing.

Except for the first two pitches, which were traversing, we were able to combine two pitches into one. Occasionally, I experienced some bad rope drag as a result. Be sure to bring long slings, especially if you plan to do this.

Most of the belays were fairly comfortable, but I think that we had two or three hanging belays.

I highly recommend the route, not so much for the aesthetics of the climbing, but for the novelty of doing such a long sport route and the exposure. If you're going to be in the area I can't imagine passing up the chance to do it.

Witnessed by: Celeste
Added: 2006-07-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gael on 2005-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Very nice routes. I climbed it with Dave.

Added: 2005-07-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: dead_milkman on 2005-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

though it seems a little dumb to be complaining that a sport route is contrived i simply can't help myself... i can guarantee that any party approaching this piece of cliff in a ground-up manner would have ascended a substantially different line. the climbing was sustained, at least, but many bolts (and a couple belays) are in a retarded position.

Added: 2005-07-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tonydevo on 2004-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

10d/11a. Decent. 8.5 hrs car-to-car.

Added: 2004-08-30

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