Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: The Long Lead - 5.8 Average Rating : 3.86/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
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Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: sun2stone on 2012-02-26
(View Climbing Log)
my Guide Route
first brought up Fritz on 3/9/2006. Many times since, 4 leads this season, my Fav.
P1 trick hidden left hand crux at 25ft forarm on clean cut angled block - a must find pocket !
P2 awell protected seam in the dihedral except, you must run throught the crux at top 10ft until protect at the edge.
P3 boulder at chimmney protect rope pinch with old web. enjoy the changing facewall move to finish.
No P4, rap at back of squeeze to Mystic grotto.
Hike in light and ready to top out , return to TH via key slot exit.
Do not return to base.
P1 trick hidden left hand crux at 25ft forarm on clean cut angled block - a must find pocket !
P2 awell protected seam in the dihedral except, you must run throught the crux at top 10ft until protect at the edge.
P3 boulder at chimmney protect rope pinch with old web. enjoy the changing facewall move to finish.
No P4, rap at back of squeeze to Mystic grotto.
Hike in light and ready to top out , return to TH via key slot exit.
Do not return to base.
Added: 2012-03-17
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
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Onsight ascent by: chief1210 on 2011-10-20
(View Climbing Log)
cool wall
with brad
Added: 2011-10-20
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: kubok13 on 2011-01-09
(View Climbing Log)
none
pitch 2 is money
Added: 2011-01-10
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: RyanJames1984 on 2010-11-06
(View Climbing Log)
The Long Lead
Fun route. Great views. Remote. Good rock.
Added: 2010-11-06
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: djthx on 2009-12-17
(View Climbing Log)
cool 2nd pitch
fun way to spend the day. We did the strok it gently finish Run out. We put in rap bolts at the very top. you can desend with two ropes. first rap in to weird alcove walk north tord the drop off more rap bolts here. rap to base of clif. Dont walk down. if you rap you can do two routes in a day!!
Added: 2010-04-17
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-02-14
(View Climbing Log)
_
Decent climbing, some loose rock on all pitches. 1st pitch has some awkward moves right off the ground. 2nd pitch crux is very technical stemming with only so-so pro (small stuff). Gotta be solid (but the climbing is quite good here). The descent was very...wandering.
Added: 2008-04-07
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
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Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: grippedclimer on 2007-05-04
(View Climbing Log)
This climb is cool
I liked this one alot, especially the first pitch which I ran 180ft to just under the roof. The belay sucked and my ankles still hurt. Great climb, swallows gear. you will use all sizes. I still got gripped! haaaaaa
Added: 2007-05-05
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Onsight ascent by: stick233 on 2003-06-03
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
fun route, good times. i think it's worth it to climb, good views...
Witnessed by: me_lad (morris)
Added: 2003-06-03
Added: 2003-06-03
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Onsight ascent by: birdman on 2003-05-07
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2003-05-07
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Red Point ascent by: fritzski on 2003-03-20
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
Would characterize first pitch as more of a small, awkward dihedral than a chimney (Rock Climbing Az). "Squeezing" it doesn't seem to be as much of an option as stemming, mantelling, and occasional layback. Second pitch dihedral is very sustained. Look closely for key small pockets and edges. Third pitch chimney is fairly intense. Sides get smooth and concave at points making for a good squirm. Overall I felt rating was a bit "Supes Old School" on this climb, especially 5.7 for first pitch.
Added: 2003-03-20