Ascent Notes for: Eperon Frendo - Frendo Spur - AD Average Rating : 5.00/5

Did this over 2 days with Kostas and Scotty, as our first route in Chamonix.

Bivied at a snow-notch about 4-5 pitches below the snow-crest because of some slower moving Brits ahead of us (who bailed in the morning due to dropped crampons).

It had just dumped a few days before we got on it... lots of sketchy snow-covered rock. Climbed almost the whole thing in crampons.

The traverse right under the rognon had some terrible ice with terrible pro and terrible belays. Solid water ice after that.

Topped out to catch the last cable car with about 30 seconds to spare.

Started from bivi just on first light, perty of three (wrong! takes too long) Effectively solo, only using rope occasionally on rock section. Then on snow roped, and sometimes climbed together, sometimes belayed. The'snow' arete was bare and the final snow field was also bare ice. (wish we'd taken the buttress option). The trek up the arete to the cable car was ankle deep in soft slushy snow mixed with straw! A great route but would be better in a snowier season. Good gear, good rock, but a push for a three party to finish before last car down to bar and several much needed beers.

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A very good route. We simulclimbed all but three pitches in 7h.

Beautiful route! 13 hours from tent at the Plan des Aiguilles to the summit ridge. Descent via telepherique (after a few beers)...