Ascent Notes for: 05 El Curandero - 5.12a Average Rating : 3.75/5

Wow, this was a fun climb. I worked this on TR up and then back down to first learn the moves prior to the RP attempt the next day. It can easily be set up from La Pressa immediately to the right of it. Broken hold is the thinnest cold at the crux moves, however it's the next hold I used with the right hand that was painful. It was like pressing the finger tips on the large-holed side of a cheese grater and mixed with the smaller holes poking into the skin. The next left was similarly textured on with an opposing thumb pinch to spread the load/pain. Once you pull through the lower bulge just keep your presence and sort out the slightly technical moves all the way up after a good rest in the large hueco.

Very fun and rewarding send.

2 move wonder at the first crux. The rest is 11a climbing with a second 11c/d crux. CAREFUL! If you blow the second bolt at the first crux, you will break your ankles on the slab. Do it on top rope first if you're not confident on 12's, to get the move dialed, and then it'll be an easy ascent.

interesting deadpoint at the crux

so i had recorded this send under bone factory a couple years ago, they are very similar routes, easy ramp start to a crimpy bulge and then 11 climbing with good rests up to the anchors.

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