Ascent Notes for: Shockley's Without - 5.4 Average Rating : 3.80/5

I lead the first pitch and Kevin took the second pitch. We both decided that the soaked rock would not make for a pleasant 3rd pitch. Found out that chalk is pretty much all mental though. We will be back.

Im going to Shock the pants off that ceiling soon enough! First pitch is bland, then comes the meat!

As the middle of 3 climbers, I can't call myself a true second - I cleaned no gear. Fell once on P2 when my arms pumped out at the crux. Wanted to do the ceiling, but will have to come back when I am stronger and more efficient. The views from the two belay ledges were stellar on a clear day. I can see why this one is a classic.

Yes, I did it without. No, I am not proud. Yes, I will do it with the next time. Damn it.

Lead pitches 1 and 3 in May of 2004 as my first trad leads. Came back and lead pitch 2, which was excellent. Then since we were completely dehydrated and worn out and I was told that Shockley’s shouldn’t be my first 5.6 lead, of course I had to try to pull the ceiling. I took about a 10 footer onto a bomber #2 C4. I will surely pull through the ceiling next time. Oh and down climbing and pulling out gear sucks.

We planned to do the ceiling, but it was too hard for the lead, so he downclimbed and we did the without instead.

No comment

No comment

Followed on Strictly (P1), followed Shockley's (p2), led Without (P3). Interesting finish on Without - a blank, smooth face about 8 feet high; total layback off crack in a dihedral to get up. Very fun pitch, and P2 is a surprise - stout!!