waiting (more than 3 hours) for a slow party to do the 1st two pitches, but it went pretty quick after that. Climbed in 8 pitches, no simulclimbing. Up to pitch 5 or 6 every pitch was an ultra-classic, basically scrambling after that. Definitely worthy of its classic status.
This one is one to remember... climbed it with a 62.5m rope like this: -B1: belay from tree at 200ft. B2: Belay at the 7by10 ledge (follower simulclimbed to 3by10 ledge). B3:(short pitch) belay at Crescent ledge. B4:(short pitch) belay right at the base of left ramp. B5:(long pitch) belay right before the right traverse of P8. B6: Belay at the tree. Simulclimbed to the top (roped up for the 5.6 move after p11). Climbed leisurely in 7.5 hours. Perfect weather. Crux move did not feel hard b/c crack was dry on p1.
This was a great climb that started hard and only got easier. We got the first four pitches a little mixed up belaying at the wrong spots, but in all did it in four jumbled short and long pitches. The first pitch was wet in a small section which made it the crux of the whole route. The next three we amazing, fairly sustained, 5.8 crack climbing. I almost missed the crescent ledge and went up to the heady looking roof above it. Getting back down to the ledge was definitely exciting! Pitches 5 and 6 weren’t too hard, but still had some fun moves. On Pitch 7, I pulled to 5.9 roof move at the pin. With a 70m rope, rope drag got to be a little too bad to simul so we did it in 2 long runout pitches and then a last short scramble to the top. The descent was a little scary as we went right toward a cairn and then found ourselves on a steep section at the edge of a huge cliff. Needless to say we traversed left and found a much easier descent route.
30 minute hike, got to the base around 9am; there was a congo line, but luckily the party of 3 ahead of us decided to bail, so our wait wasn't too bad. A beautiful day, but clouds formed in the afternoon so we had to hustle off. Such a great climb, lots of fun. Crux is first pitch. I led P4 (5.8), traverse pitch, and P7-8. Walk off is weird--down the backside of the dome. Would have been super sketchy/impossible had it started raining.
Beautiful day; great climb which protects well; 5.9 wet 1st pitch. Smooth sailing from there except for 1 off-line excursion about half way up. I got off on an open face to the right of a large right facing corner when I should have been on the opposite (left) side of that corner. I eventually ran out of holds and had to do a sketchy right to left traverse, followed by a pendulum traverse in the opposite direction from higher up (to retrieve my off-line Pro). After the walk out I was quite tired and a little dehydrated. Slept in the back of my van for a few hours before leaving the park for Mount Whitney.
The end of a 4 day climbing trip with Peter S up and down the Eastern Sierra...climbed in the morning, drove home to St. George in the afternoon (the back way=remote)...truly my favorite stretch of road anywhere, 2nd trip through that section of NV. Not a stellar climb from a climber's perspective (least interesting climbing of the trip), but worth doing if you don't have to deal with folks. Lucky for us, it rained the previous day, all day, and we had the entire dome to ourselves...that I can live with! After a big rain like that, both the first and second pitches are covered in drainage, but I have climbed much worse. If a bit of water delivers the route human free, I am all over that exchange.