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Ascent Notes for: Orient Express - 5.11d Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

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  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2012-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars wicked

This route is long and full on for the grade, not a begginer 5.9. The frist two pitchs have poor gear with the first being quite poor with bad rock on both and huge fall potential. The rock on the 3rd pitch becomes very good with a strenious 5.9 with good gear and fun climbing. Pitch 4 is a fun pitch with a aquward layback movement into the upper groove. Pitch 5 leads to a good ledge. We looked at the direct route although it is quite runout to the bolts, the traverse is very exciting with good but tecky gear and a hard move on to the ledge which follows a loose face on poor pro to a two bolt belay that isnt marked on the topo. Pitch 7 is very fun with a bit scraby rock at first but becomes bomber and a very fun corner crack. Pitch 8 is another good pitch as well at grade. Pitch 9 Has a long down climb that can be protected well and the down climb is very easy, the slabs are solid but a bit run out at easy climbing to a single bolt with a couple of good nut placements. The corner climbs well however once it turns into a chimney there are a few big blocks on top. The remaining pitchs can be done however you really want, there are many choices with lots of belay stations, we simul climbed it in one pitch at 5.8ish.

Added: 2012-08-06

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