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Ascent Notes for: Moby Dick - 5.8 popular Average Rating = 4.29/5 Average Rating : 4.29/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: justroberto on 2013-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars -

Led 1,3,5

Added: 2013-03-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: happiegrrrl on 2011-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars n/a

Followed Peter. Committing for the leader, I suppose, if leading at their limit. With only 1 pitch at 5.8, though, I don't get how the route earned it's Stars Status... Not that it wasn't fun, of course, and the hike in is quite nice. All in all, pleasant experience.

I threw the rap rope, and it was a windy day.... Yes, the flake bit down - on my partners first-time ever used double ropes, too. Yikes! I had to batman over towards the snag and then let loose and try to whip the rope loose. The god's must have taken pity, for the rope seemed to release itself after three attempts. Phew!!!!

Added: 2011-04-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: RyanJames1984 on 2011-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Moby Dick

Excellent route, excellent rock. Fun!!!

Added: 2011-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: LLandis on 2011-02-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Moby Dick

Climbed last pitch in 45 mph wind gusts. Though the fifth pitch is an easy 5.7, it is very exposed and the wind made it quite heady! Leader could not find bolted anchors on fifth pitch and had to rig one up with pro. It can be done in 3 pitches with half ropes.

Added: 2011-03-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: kubok13 on 2011-01-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars none

led 2,4 and "6, kinda"...missed all the money leads

Added: 2011-01-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2010-11-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The first pitch

is a whale but the rest are just minnows. There is a spot on the first that falling would be unwise. After that there are some more runouts but the climbing is easy. Be careful that rappel is a rope eater (as evidenced by the two ropes caught in the chickenheads off tot the climbers left.)

Added: 2010-11-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: djthx on 2010-04-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Cool chicken heads

Fun making these anchors

Added: 2010-04-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bkboyd on 2010-01-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars call me Ishmael

Long slings very helpful for slinging chickenheads.

We placed a #5 camalot a couple of times -- start of first pitch, and higher up as well. Also used a .3 camalot a few times.

Two of the anchors are natural: tree plus chickenhead for P2, and chickenheads for P3. If you need to bail, it is not possible to rappel without leaving gear.

Took us two hours to find the route, and 2.5 hours from the base of the rappel back to the car. Creek was high, several downed trees in the approach gully, and hiked out in the dark. So, YMMV.

For the descent, not far from the rappel is a section where you make a hard left to avoid a drop-off. There is a cairn marker here that is easy to miss in the dark.

Finally, if you have the Falcon Arizona guide, there is a topo for Moby Dick on page 136 that is incorrectly attributed as Pony Express.

Added: 2010-02-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: floridaputz on 2009-12-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Moby Dick

My first climb back after hip replacement surgery. I thought this was a very fun route. P1 is the crux, and I thought it stayed interesting the whole way. The chicken heads were not quite what I expected. great summit, spectacular area.

Added: 2010-01-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mikemikaels on 2008-12-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Soft rating, just do it.

A few hard thin face moves at the beginning. Rest of the climb is 5.6ish if you stay on route. Not a lot of gear needed, if you're comfortable running it out on easy ground. Bring a bunch of shoulder length slings. Don't bring really long ones like I did, and get tangled up pulling them off your shoulder.
Led pitches 2, 4 and 5.

Added: 2008-12-09

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