Ascent Notes for: Standard Thumb - 5.7 Average Rating : 3.67/5

we climbed the nose, tried to climbed the thumb, and ended up climbing the ass. We got lost immediately due to a set of bolt anchors at the base of the first pitch. This threw us off by one pitch for the rest of the climb. We were off route constantly. We ended up on S-Crack, realized it was too hard, rappelled, down climbed back on route, only to have more route finding difficulties higher up. Overall we climbed pitch one (really zero), two (really one), tree (really two), and four (really three). Expect to grovel on the real pitch two by dynoing from tree to tree. No need for much gear at the beginning because there are rap slings everywhere due to constant bailing. Our true mistake was not scrambling high enough near the plumb line wall. After reaching lunch ledge we ate our 8 hour old egg McMuffins and rappelled down. Good times.

Climbed to lunch ledge via S-crack. Aided through the crux. Chimneys had ice and the troughs full of snow. Left some booty on the last bolt for who ever is next.

we did it in shorts and windbreakers in March. Topped out just before sunset and proceeded on an epic 8 hour-single-headlamp-inthesnow-in-chacos descent. Puts this whole "climbing" thing into perspective.

Probably the most "out there" I have ever felt in my life, an adventure for sure. We did the Indecent Exposure Variation, which allegedly avoids some unpleasantries in favor of some fun tree climbing.

I had a 4.5 camalot, and was hella glad on the trough and squeeze pitches. Bring it if you have it, and are timid on off-widths.

The descent is wild, but really fun in a sick way. I am ready to go do this one again, after two years to forget about it.

Bring extra water in the summer, the descent sucks!

Run out on easy ground.

pitches down low sucked. a couple good upper pitches. the descent was hell.

Had a couple of interesting pitches, but I'll NEVER do it again!

Fun, a must do. However, the trough was hard.

Finally, after two failed attempts, the thumb is in the bag.... the view is spectacular, and the descent is much smoother/safer around the opposite side of the thumb. Copy the route, and bring the map..... route-finding is not trivial on this climb.