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Ascent Notes for: Lunar Ecstacy IV 5.9 C2+ - A2+ Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A2+
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climb-high on 2011-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Solo

I did this climb solo over three days, 5.13-5.15.11. This was my first true big wall (grade V) an first multi-pitch solo. it was a huge learning experience but a great time. nothing to bad. A couple of hook moves on the J. variation on top, the one before the bolt as a little sketchy. I took the 5.10 variation to the first pitch as i could not get a good anchor built for the standard first pitch and took the second pitch variation (sheer lunacy pitch) as i didnt really feel like cleaning that right traverse.

Added: 2011-05-20

Ratings
  Difficulty A2+
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bnorrgar on 2008-03-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A Classic

2 nights on the wall, could be done in 1 night if you fixed the first 2-3 pitches. There are some definite tricky sections in the head wall, you're going to want some offset nuts and there are definite sections were leap frogging TCU's or C3's is necessary. Couple of very interesting tri-cam placements in pin scar pods. Be careful of loose rocks near the upper sections of the headwall. There are only two places to bivy w/o a portaledge (we had one)...I believe top of 3 pitch at base of head wall, then on the 8th pitch there is a sloping large ledge. Don't bring a #4 cam or larger...you won't use it. One guidebook indicated bat hooking.... we didn't have one, and really never saw a placement for one. Hauling is pretty easy...slightly over-hanging headwall...enough said. Did he original finish because the traverse over to the Jarrett Finish with the pig didn't look inviting. The original finish is tricksy.... some horizontal cracks that accept tricams towards the end...although I was blowing a large amount of sand out of them. Make sure to throw some climbing shoes on for the last pitch. I was pulling the free moves in clunky approach shoes...not fun.

Added: 2008-03-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1998-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun in the sun

This route is a nice alternative to Moonlight when it's crowded and only seemed a bit harder.

Added: 2007-04-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: poorboy on 2006-04-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

1.5 days on the wall. 20 feet up P5 was the crux, after that it was cruiser. Great position, fun climbing. Bring some larger DMM Walnuts and you'll be stoked. Ian took the last bolt out with his fingers, and kept it as a souvenir. Does the last pitch go free at 5.hard??

Added: 2006-04-09

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ihuang on 2006-04-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

First aid route and my first big wall. Started early in the afternoon due to traffic pile-up on the first 2 pitches of Moonlight. Bivied on top of P4 and topped out and walked off before dark the second day.

Witnessed by: poorboy44
Added: 2006-04-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cologman on 2006-02-22 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

13 HOURS TO CLIMB IN FEB. One hell of a star lit night to walk down in.

Witnessed by: Flamer
Added: 2006-02-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2006-02-22 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Great day. 13 hours on the climb.

Witnessed by: Jeff Bevin aka cologman
Added: 2006-02-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: addiroids on 2005-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

some famous photographer (can't remember the name) was off route on moonlight when we tried to pass their slow asses on this route before it splits. what a douche.

Witnessed by: bill
Added: 2005-10-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: coomer on 2004-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Do it in a push- makes a good first "push" wall...

Bring lots of bigger offset nuts- #5, #6... we only had 1 ea of this size, and triple of the smaller ones- it's the bigger sizes you want triples of... Dicey with only one set... lots of back-cleaning... whaahooo!

Witnessed by: Geoff Snyder
Added: 2004-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: holdplease2 on 2004-02-09 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Solo ascent, 3 nights on wall. Done in good style.

Witnessed by: Bree and Jeff
Added: 2004-02-09

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