Ascent Notes for: East Buttress - 5.7 popular Average Rating : 4.86/5

Lead the whole route. Party of three on a 70m 9.8 rope. P3 was the best. We got off route after the Peewee and went right to a small chimney to a very awkward off cupped hands and short off-width (10b ??) that drained all our energy but managed to pull the on-sight. (10 hours to climb, 3 hours to descend the terrible mountaineers route)

Fun and secure accent, scarry descent by the Mountaneers Route

Approach is the trail to Iceberg Lake from Whitney Portal. Equipment needed: Tent, Sleeping Bag, Large Pack, Day pack, Food / Water purification kit; Standard Climbing Rack; Hiking boots; Rock climbing Shoes; and warm clothing (it gets cold at this Altitude). I would allow at least 1-2 days for the approach/acclimatization; 1 day for the climb and descent; and 1 day to hike back out. You can camp at Whitney Portal (9000+Ft), at the end of the paved road, on the way in; or you can hike in to Boyscout Lake, or all the way to Iceberg Lake (13,500'), on Day 1. Boyscout lake is much nicer, but you still have a couple of hours left on the approach to the base of the East Buttress, just above Iceberg Lake. The summit is approx 14,500'); approximately 10 pitches, a fair amount of which is class 4. There are some exposed areas with upper level class 5 (around 5.6-5.8), but nothing exceedingly difficult. I roped up for these, climbed them on lead using an ascender to belay myself, rappelled down, then climbed the pitch again, retrieving my protection. I carry a double 8.5 mm 60 meter rope system which allows pitches and rapels of >160 feet. There are a number of route variations on the way up, some a bit easier than others. I was the only one on the East Buttress this day, although I did see a group of three on the Mountaineers Route. They were camped at Iceberg and were just getting up as I was arriving from my base camp at Boyscout Lake. Keep in mind, If you try to do the approach and the route too fast, without acclimatizing, you may very well have a first hand experience with Acute Mountain Sickness (headache, nausea, vomiting, and general malaise). Take your time, and spend a few nights camping and enjoying your surroundings. The overall experience will be much more enjoyable.

4:15 on route with mom!

onsight car to car, back in time for a steak dinner. so good.

summit around noon, back at Iceberg to pack up ~2:15, car ~5. got caught in some mild showers around the E Ledges on the way out.

Great climb. Start early and watch weather. We got caught near the top in a thunder storm but pressed on.Trip of a lifetime

I don't want to detract from this climb, but I actually had more fun on the East Face. I guess E.Buttress seemed more straightforward, less unique pitches on it than the E.Face. Or maybe it's because we 1st climbed E.Face, then Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell (my fave of the 3), so by day 3, this was just run of the mill :) If you want a really long approach, try hiking the John Muir Trail to the base :-p

Spectacular views. Iceberg lake looked amazing all the way up. Rock was a little loose, and routefinding was amazingly difficult.

Start early,6:00 am or the afternoon showers will get you some extra adventure. Pitch 8 is REALLY fun with some white stuff on it. Can be extra REALLY fun with lightening too! Solid 5.6 moves on most pitches. Can make some 5.7 variations and still stay on route. Not much shelter from the elements.