Ascent Notes for: North Face -
Average Rating : 5.00/5
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should be downgraded...
Having seen the first pitch rated from 11a to 11c i was a bit surprised by how easy the so-called crux was. You don't need to lie-back\undercling for more than two moves (and that's just moving your feet). after that there are plenty of good calcite crystals for feet and you can jam the rest.
if that route was in Sedona or Paradise forks it'd be 5.10
I loved the route, first pitch was tough in the mid section, easier finish than I expected. Top pitch was not too tough, use the wide gear early, the finish is a squeeze w/not much pro but odds n ends fit, nuts for the last 30'.
Witnessed by: phugganut
did this route with amanda from MO. sweet warm weather climb.
Recommend 5x #3 camalots for P1.
With all intentions of climbing the north chimney, we mistakenly hopped right on the north face. After jamming the first 100 feet of wide hands, I was worn out. Took a rest before the calcite crux ahead. I stayed in the finger crack to the left and placed a perfect yellow alien which would be soon tested. A few more moves later the crack went to rattly fingers. I tried to smear up the calcite slab only to come ripping off. 20 ft lower hanging below the entire crux section, I felt I could not go on. I didnt even have the strength to pull on the gear or yard back up to my high spot. I built a belay and brought up Sean. He was having the same troubles I was having, but he eventually aided through the crux. After attaining the belay ledge, we decided to rap. After thinking we totally got spanked by a 5.8 crack, we left with our tails between our legs. Later that night after going over the guidebook, we came to the realization that we just ascended the north FACE route instead of the north Chimney. Needless to say a huge burden was lifted after that news hit. Stellar climb, best on the tower, We will be back.