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Ascent Notes for: North Face - 5.11a popular Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-03-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars North Face

I see David had some extra time in the airport to sign summit logs! Yes I concur, fantastic desert tower route, by anyone's standard. I like OW, but then I drink Coors light beer as well. Like David said, either take a #6 or stop at 4". I carried the damn #5 all the way to the summit on lead. The crux of those last two pitches was really the weird, hard to protect on lead, overhanging 2" crack on that meandering 2nd pitch. The story below regarding the young men who thought they were on the North Chimney as they battled the first pitch is kind of stories I sure wish climbing Mags would print more of, versus who the biggest climbing jock is. (we all know that is David!)

Added: 2009-03-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2009-03-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Castleton N. Face

Wow! More fun than Primrose because there's a little less stress. 3 outstanding pitches. Led the first one with lots of huffing and puffing, even the stances are strenuous. Took 7 blue camalots, placed 6 of them. The crux final move is committing, well protected but difficult to downclimb. Dow led the upper two pitches, I thought this trade worked out because (1) it let me avoid the ankle cracking potential on p. 2 and (2) it let me heckle him while leading the OW on p. 3. A #5 camalot was wortheless on this pitch, if anything big take a #6.

Added: 2009-03-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2008-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route

....

Added: 2008-04-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 2001-05-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the best tower routes

This thing is insanely good. Exposed and awesome.

Added: 2007-04-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: minter on 2006-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars should be downgraded...

Having seen the first pitch rated from 11a to 11c i was a bit surprised by how easy the so-called crux was. You don't need to lie-back\undercling for more than two moves (and that's just moving your feet). after that there are plenty of good calcite crystals for feet and you can jam the rest.

if that route was in Sedona or Paradise forks it'd be 5.10

Added: 2006-11-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sonso45 on 2006-10-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I loved the route, first pitch was tough in the mid section, easier finish than I expected. Top pitch was not too tough, use the wide gear early, the finish is a squeeze w/not much pro but odds n ends fit, nuts for the last 30'.

Witnessed by: phugganut
Added: 2006-10-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: camhead on 2006-05-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

did this route with amanda from MO. sweet warm weather climb.

Added: 2006-05-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: poorboy on 2006-05-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Classic, but.....brrrrrrrrrrrr!!!
Recommend 5x #3 camalots for P1.

Added: 2006-05-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ihuang on 2006-04-28 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-04-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: berkly on 2006-04-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

With all intentions of climbing the north chimney, we mistakenly hopped right on the north face. After jamming the first 100 feet of wide hands, I was worn out. Took a rest before the calcite crux ahead. I stayed in the finger crack to the left and placed a perfect yellow alien which would be soon tested. A few more moves later the crack went to rattly fingers. I tried to smear up the calcite slab only to come ripping off. 20 ft lower hanging below the entire crux section, I felt I could not go on. I didnt even have the strength to pull on the gear or yard back up to my high spot. I built a belay and brought up Sean. He was having the same troubles I was having, but he eventually aided through the crux. After attaining the belay ledge, we decided to rap. After thinking we totally got spanked by a 5.8 crack, we left with our tails between our legs. Later that night after going over the guidebook, we came to the realization that we just ascended the north FACE route instead of the north Chimney. Needless to say a huge burden was lifted after that news hit. Stellar climb, best on the tower, We will be back.

Added: 2006-04-10

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