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Ascent Notes for: Red Spot Route (Frisby/Jaquot/Mathiesen '65) - 5.5 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: j_from_the_307 on 2004-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Decided to climb this after our ascent of Sidewinder. Got to the base around 5pm. <br>
P1: 5.6, struggled to find my first piece of pro, after that it wasn't bad.
P2: 5.7, Tried to follow Harper's topo... worthless. Was supposed to go diagonally up and right from red spot. Ran into sections of 5.10 whilst run out 80+ft and decided against it. Backed off and headed up and left instead. Ran it out 160 ft to a bad ledge and barely wedged myself in for the belay. Set a #1 DMM and a red tricam as a backup behind a separated block and hoped Waugy wouldn't fall. <br>
P3: Starting to get dark because I wasted too much time trying to find Harper's route... Ran out the full rope length to catch the diagonal ledge leading off to the left. Hit the end of my rope 6ft from my belay ledge, almost dark, looking at a 400+ foot fall onto gear that would probably separate the block even more. For some reason I absolutely love this kind of exposure. Managed to flip the rope over a few blocks, stick in two bomber cams and belay Waugy up. <br>
P4: Had Waugy lead the last pitch, mostly dark by this point, 40 ft of 5.4 to the top. Long walk down, back in Laramie by 10:30. Cheeseburger and greasy fries afterwords never tasted so good. <br><br>
Not one of my best choices to start up this at 5pm, but we handled the situation in expert style and made it down just fine. Learned not to even bother with Harper's topo... it's much more fun up here to pick a line and go... most of the time you'll run into an old piton or two, no matter what you're climbing.

<br><br>
--J

Witnessed by: pd_waugy
Added: 2004-08-12

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