Beautiful to be on Mt Washington. Did this route twice in the last week. Drove up auto-road, to avoid hike up and return hike down. Just more relaxed that way, but pricey.
Only a few moves of actual climbing on the route, but super fun. Try not to miss the fairytale traverse. To find it, head right when in the exposed ramp on the 2nd to last pitch. If you continue up the ramp and exit the ramp, you have gone too far. We missed this traverse the first time. Super fun!
Oh, and did the 5.8 variation both times. The 5.7 looks scary. The move off the belay looks hard, then the slabby moves to get to the chminey seem scarily above gear. I dunno. I might just be a whimp.
Fun climb, great pro! Rather exciting crux :) Alpine environment was wonderful, slightly less hiking would have been nice, but I'm not complaining too much. One of the most enjoyable days I've had in New England for a while :)
With Jerrad Stewart, we climbed the 5.8 route as described in Peter Lewis & Dave Horowitz Northeast Select guidebook. The crux pitch has lots of fixed pins to assist in the unlikely route finding. Don't miss the Fairyland Traverse.
weather was perfect, about 30 degrees with only 30-40mph winds. aided everything that was too hard including the 5.8 variation, used ice tools in a few spots. easily the most committing climb I've done! got more windy and more cloudy as we got higher. topped out just as it was getting dark.
The climbing was discontinuous and a bit awkward in places. Did the 5.8 direct variation, which primarily involved fixed gear. The setting was beautiful and the rock excellent. Simul-climbed to crux, led 2 pitches, soloed rest. Fun and relaxing.