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Ascent Notes for: Western Swing - 5.10c Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Western Swing

I like this route as well as Song and a Dance. Larry added a couple of winners here in 2005. Folks need to break away from the herd and try some of these recent additions vs making tracks for the 5.7 Jubilant Song, over and over. I combined the 3rd and 4th pitches and that is a rope stretcher/dragger to be sure. A bit of simul climbing is needed if you set up belay right after the bush on pitch 2, but you can set it just a tad higher to not have to simul climb if you want to combine these two. The crux move of exiting the chimney, moving up the finger crack and then out across the face to the weakness really involved some fun thoughtful climbing. The chimney portion is quite flared vs parallel. Tougher climbing than Epinephrine for example. I suggest you finish on Jubliant vs the dirty crack exit to the bandstand ledge. That means you are doing the last four pitches of Jubliant which can be easily combined into three. First two pitches not great, but the route is worth doing for sure. Chimney, roof, good features. A little run out on the traverse across the face to reach the weakness above on pitch 4. Suppose that is where he used some sliding ball nuts.

Added: 2009-12-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: needrock on 2008-01-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars western swing

the last pitch of this route is well worth the first two easy pitches. the rap from the top down to the gully was a little sketchy but it turned out fine.

Added: 2008-01-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2005-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

FA: Larry DeAngelo and John Wilder on 3.25.05. What a great route- really serious at the grade- this is not a beginners 5.10. Aiding through the crux is possible if you find yourself stumped.

Witnessed by: larryd
Added: 2005-03-25

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