Ascent Notes for: Bookworm *** - 5.7 Average Rating : 3.18/5

It was much easier than the first pitch.

Just a little too wide for a fist jam, so this climb was done with a lot of arm bars and foot jams using the full length of my size six foot.

Fun route, my first multi-pitch. Like someone else said if you climb it mid day in the summer you'll about slip right off due to sweaty hands lol.

I got on this crack at the very end of a very hot sweaty day, and was surprised at how slippery I found the wide stuff. The jams at the bottom are great, but then it gets wider and while it would be hard to fall, it can be tricky to go up too.

This is the first climb I have ever stacked two hand jams together, which convinced me that Leavittation must really be cool if you can do it.

Top roped this after leading Ancylostoma. Kind of big for comfortable hands, used fists and arm bars.

Agreed - this felt more like a 5.8 (at least) in my mind. The first pitch is as described - crack that is borderline off-width. I misjudged the size - and placed my 2 #3's early on, and just had to run the rest of it out with a whole bunch of useless small-med stuff hanging from my harness. (bring a #4, and a #5 if you've got it!) 2-bolt rap/belay station on a nice ledge. The bolts are high - I could barely reach them by hand, and had to build a proper anchor with slings just to reach them with my PAS/daisy chain.

The 2nd pitch is bolted (same pitch as bunny face), and is fun, but a totally different climb - face climbing on nubs and knobs, with lots of bolts (9 as I recall, and also a 2-bolt rap station). With a 60m rope it's 2 single-rope raps to the ground.

good crack.

5.8 second that

ran up to clean first pitch of bunny face.

I pretty much ran it out, slung a rock in the crack at the top (only had 1 #4). Then linked to the second pitch of bunny face- made for a nice variety of ow, nubs, and pockets all in one climb.