Ascent Notes for: Buffalo Brothers - 5.7 popular Average Rating : 3.57/5

my first time climbing here. can't wait to get back and climb some of the better routes.

was my buddies first multipitch climb

Fun climb, nothing special though.

I went with bobbybloss...comment above

I forgot my P.O.S. topo pdf that probably wouldn't have helped anyway and started up "No Burritos" and instead of finishing it out I had the genious idea of trying to run out for the bolts 40 feet to the left for "Left Longing" (ironic hugh?). Got about 5 feet from them when I ran into some nice 5.15d face and decided to down climb to my last draw (35 ft!) then left a biner and rapped down. Anyhow, just remember that "Noobie Takes a Hike" starts at the easy ramp ALL the way at the left side of the mountain then the bolts for "Buffalo Brothers" start up the wall on the left at the SECOND set of rap bolts you find going up "Noobie".

Just as fun the second time around. I think I followed a better line at the crux this time, and it felt pretty easy that way. Great view from the belay ledge!

A really killer climb! Starts at the end of the first pitch of Noobie. Crux is right at second and third bolts, passing over a 10-15 foot high shelf-like feature, including a really cool undercling! Easy and really fun climbing above to the first rap anchors. Forced to belay from here due to rope drag (would definitely recommend slings on first few bolts to avoid this). Route continues above through slightly harder climbing to final belay ledge on a large block above a dirt ledge, avoiding an uncomfortable belay on the slab below. Overall, route was well protected, especially at cruxes, but in my opinion deserves a PG13 rating due to bolt spacing at easier parts (I seem to recall spacing 20ft or so at some easy parts). Definitely safe though for leaders who are very comfortable leading in the 5.8 range. Crux felt more like 5.8 to me, similar to the majority of the easier climbing on Leonids, but most was in the 5.6-5.7 range. ****!

Fun. Not sure why the top anchor wasn't just placed on the slab near the last bolt. The climbing after the last bolt is contrived and nothing spectacular.