Ascent Notes for: Ides of Middlemarch -
Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Sandbagged rating....not for 5.9 leaders....first pitch goes up right diagnoling slab to rounded buldge reachhhyy.. with no pro for the crux 5.10 move...injury potential...last pitch is 5.10 awkward as well...pro is good....(3 cam)... overall....hmmmm 5.10R is more like it......
Beta alert! At the sloping roof on p1, you stem high and crank up and snag a good hold on the dike (this is the crux 5.9+ or harder maybe). This move is probably 10-15 feet up and right of the last gear below the roof. There's no pro here or anywhere along this dike until you get back left to the big dihedral. So yer looking at a 20'+ penji fall onto a slab if you blow the crux. And you simply don't fall traversing back to the dihedral along the dike. Plus, if the second blows it, he (or she) gets to penji back left into the dihedral. It's an unprotected traverse, so ev-rybody gets to lead!