Ascent Notes for: variation: T-Roofic Direct - 5.11a Average Rating : 4.67/5

Put this under Detour at first, but think I am doing direct.

I'll give it a PG13 for the 'approach' to the first bolt. You only realize how steep it is once you lower.

I blew out my forearms deciding what to do over the roof so I hung on the third bolt. (I sort of had negative beta.) I soldiered on, not fully recovered, and gave out again just before the anchors.

Update: Second time was charmed. Got the red point two weeks later on next attempt.

5 bolts; 2 'sport' anchors.

This variation looks squeezed and hokey from the ground, but
1. lots of moves to get up onto the main route.
2. more fun than the main route's crimpy start
3. made the rest of the route much more pumpy and feeling like similar pumpfests (Blowing Smoke, El Presidente, Wife).

Stick Clip.

beginning is sketchy, the rest of the climb is chill

No comment

No comment