This wasn't the best route choice for my.... 4th lead of 2011. But I had a homemade (by me) 8.5" cam I hadn't used yet and suckered myself into climbing it. The whole offwidth part was hard, but I got through it, pro is good, then got to where the crack pettered out at the end, had that loose flake of doom to dance around, and was totally out of energy. I aided as high as I could then freed above that another couple moves and got stuck. couldn't figure out what to do. with a TR it would've worked, but out of mental and physical energy with loose rock.... well, I ended up having a friend come over the ledge from that route to the left and drop me a rope. once in a while its good to get a little over your head and bail on something. The book said this was a Jim Beyer solo (I'm assuming ropeless) first ascent - that guy is officially nuts, not that there was ever any doubt.
Watch out for loose rock up top! the recent rain storm of oct 06 carved out the rock. their is a death boulder up top and to the right when you go to clip the 1 bold ancor to the right if your rope hits that thing it could b bad I climb the route to the right to get my rope and geer back. good times