Ascent Notes for: Face to Face - 5.10b Average Rating : 4.50/5

Was way more fun and much easier today. The campus traverse that I referred to in my earlier post, really did have feet. It wasn't "easy" but, it wasn't hard. Stopped at a hanging belay before the final assault. P3 has a funky, committing start. Scary scary start for a leader. Once you commit to the crimps you smear and keep going to a crack. jam in a piece and keep heading up and right. THen you are rewarded with a very cool traverse left and exit through the roof. Burly and my kind of climbing. Lots of fun. A righteous lead.

Ok, P1 is R rated slabby stuff then it moves into some easy climbing.
P2 is really hard for a shorty, or I was just super low energy today. I had to campus the traverse as the feet were too low for me. Then the really odd move off of the ledge was super hard. I had to wedge my shoulder into the flake an push up to grab the crimps. Oh, the fun isn't over, there is another traverse and roof before you top out.

I was feeling so sluggish today, need to do this again when I have "wings".

Skipped P1

Awesome route, deserves the 3 stars it gets in Williams' guide book. Routefinding a bit challenging, a few spicy moves, totally worth it, grade is solid for the gunks.

... But very spooky! Not for the fledgling 5.10 leader!

Loved the upper portions of P1, didn't like the start very much. Too slopery for me to lead.

We did P3. Lots of fun, airy traverse to a BIG horn and a big throw (for this shorty) to clear the roof.

This was a very cool and exciting route! A few things on this day made it even more exciting. The first pitch (which is already R) was soaking wet near the top due to rains from the day before. Second pitch went off without a hitch. The third crux pitch had it's share of excitement. First, I don't think the start of this is rated G. You have to do a couple crux moves with out gear, except down at your belay. I was able get a small cam in, but then in the higher and wider crack that would have taken a #1 camalot very nicely, I found a hornet building a nest. I opted to not protect it so I wouldn't anger him. I got through that part and came to the exciting traverse left. I was trying to skip a tiny crack that wouldn't take my big fingers when a foot slipped and both feet cut. I hung on with one hand. Pretty exciting. Regained my composure and sent.

I don't know why more people don't do this route. The first pitch is fun and easy, and the second pitch (to the top) is unbelievable.

You can go from the GT ledge to the top if you use double ropes, but not if you use single ropes. Head up the wide left facing corner off the block, traverse straight right over the arch into a bush. Climb the 5.10b short crux crack on white rock, then traverse 10 feet or so left into an amazing sequence of roof moves with giant holds (5.9) Pretty tough if you are short.

Led p1, 2, 3