Ascent Notes for: Skank hole - 5.9 Average Rating : 3.50/5

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My partner put it this way: "If these two routes are 5.9's, they're the hardest 5.9's in the world." I rate them 5.11a by Reimers standards and 10d by greenbelt. Reviewer 1 entered 5.9 but wrote that's sandbagged so I'll add 11a here.

This was my first time at the wall and I was surprised to see other climbers on Bloody Butt to the left. I agree with the first reviewer about this being quite sandbagged by central tx standards, at least in its present condition. Even if the dust and grime were cleaned up, it would require interesting route-finding and thin crimps on sometimes overhanging rock. The beta was fun to figure out, though the first time around I was forced to traverse right more than I'd like before the anchors. There is a better sequence that goes straight up from the 'skank hole.'
I'd like to see this wall cleaned up and would definitely be back if it was. It was good to see some new climbs, and the dirt added a challenge I wasn't used to. I knocked a coconut sized foot off the climb to the right, but the rock on this one felt better, at least after the first bolt.

When first starting out. We built rap anchors on trees, rappeled down to the sport anchors, built our anchor, rapped the rest of the way down, and then cut it loose from the trees, letting the rope drop into the top anchor. Clumsy, but worked.

It's a sketchy overhanging crack climb, with a crux (my crux) involving a pinky jam that tears you up. It took four months, but I've sent the thing three times on top rope. It's an obscure little wall, overhanging and I think 5.9 is lowballing it... This thing makes "Over Easy" and "Flintstones" seem like 5.8's.

Now, to lead it. Kudos to Kirk and Alvin, your wall has a secret fan club.