Ascent Notes for: Ancient Art - 5.8 popular Average Rating : 4.55/5

ancient art

free climbed @ .10c ?

we had a wind advisory that really made things interesting! we had to climb in short spurts between the gusts. did it all free and the second bolt section seemed harder than 10a unless I was missing some important beta. chimney wasn't chossy but I didn't climb deep in the chimney where it was worse. I only worked my way deeper to set a couple of pieces of pro, otherwise I stayed on the more solid rock. I highly recommend it!!!

While the summit has amazing exposure, I found the rest of the route to be pretty chossy, especially the chimney pitch.

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The corkscrew pitch at the top and the "boardwalk" were simply awesome. Great exposure and fun climbing, but other then that last 30' the rest of the route was pretty crumby. With out a doubt worth it for that top section.

and great route. The chimney pitch has most of the climbing, but the bolt ladders go free at 10d with some interesting stemming moves down low and a face move or two at the top.

Super classic for the desert and a must-do for Moab.

We had high winds (probably about 30mph) up on the last two pitches, but it's all a head game.

Amazing exposure, other than that it is not all that hard.

Not using the bolt ladder on the first pitch to aid makes it 5.10a

i had climbed this climb twice before, only to get rained off once and forced to back off another time. finally i got it though.