Ascent Notes for: Fantasia - 5.9 Average Rating : 4.50/5

Fantastic climbing, loved every minute of it. Route finding can be a bit tricky at times.

Especially nice when you're climbing on a weekend and all of the other routes are crowded!

Some kinda scary run outs, i agree with most that the most difficult portion is the route finding on the 3rd pitch. I'm not sure but I think did the 10b variation or were completely off route. Also the super topo told us to only bring one set of cams and my partner ended up setting up an early belay station before the 3rd pitch ended because he ran outta gear. I'd bring two of the suggested cams.

With Mike L. Wish I hadn't waited so long to do this route. Good buzz.

excellent route! a very good moderate with just enough run-outs to keep the masses off it!

edit: zero of four found this note useful? hahahahhahaha

This route may be runout but is still very safe, all the "cruxes" are protected by good gear.

likey the warm up on this route... runout adds some spice and fun cuz big lines on other routes make me laugh. ha

A one (maybe) two move wonder jug haul with better pro than what most make it out top be. Bomber pro through the cruxes w/ most run out sections being no more than 25ft on HUGE jugs. Route finding is the real crux. The line goes more or less strait up, wantering to the left and right occasionally and pulling several big buldges on HUGE jugs. Hint, at the start of the third pitch, go left into the corners and pull the (crux) mantle w/good pro (black, green alien) then strait up to a short slab move to a big black knob (jug) then jugs to the top. Cakewalk.

Slip-knot the knobs with 8mm Mammut slings.

Partner lead the first pitch...I lead the 2nd...partner went left to Haystack on the 3rd pitch!

No comment