Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Under Arrest -
5.12a
Average Rating : 3.00/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Short and athletic 5.12
This seems to be a popular project climb for folks who are seeking to push thru to 5.12, since there is a good gear rescue route next door (Steep Street). I would consider this a stiff .12a, or .12b.
The route consists of a bouldery start off the ground, then a traverse on mostly really good, positive holds with good ledges for feet, then a few more good holds up to the horizontal crack/jug just below the crux.
The crux involves a really crappy sidepull for the right hand, then a reach for an equally crappy sidepull in the same direction for the left hand, providing a somewhat tenuous stance for the 5th clip. There are really good feet here if you look in the right places. Up from the 5th clip, the gradient softens some with a few mediocre crimpy holds and a recommended left heel hook to the finish.
The route consists of a bouldery start off the ground, then a traverse on mostly really good, positive holds with good ledges for feet, then a few more good holds up to the horizontal crack/jug just below the crux.
The crux involves a really crappy sidepull for the right hand, then a reach for an equally crappy sidepull in the same direction for the left hand, providing a somewhat tenuous stance for the 5th clip. There are really good feet here if you look in the right places. Up from the 5th clip, the gradient softens some with a few mediocre crimpy holds and a recommended left heel hook to the finish.
Added: 2013-06-06
