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Ascent Notes for: Set the Controls For the Heart of the Sun. - 5.11a Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

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  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2007-09-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars High pucker factor.

Climbed the route with John Robbinson. I lead every pitch wich left my nerves pretty shot by the end of the route.
The route is despirately thin with lots of loose flakey shit. You spend half the time looking for a hold you can trust and use. I wouldn't say it's chossy by any means though. It gets better as you go up. Judging by the heavily oxidized bail biner I passed on the first bolt, I,m guessing this route doesn't see a lot of action. This is a beautuful wandering route that shoots up the center of one of the most asthetic features at Cal Domes.
Failing to make that first mantle move could possibly be fatal, but more likely just hurt..... alot. I'm almost inclined to give it an X rateing because of that damn thing.

Added: 2007-10-01

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