Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Duracell - 5.8 Average Rating : 2.89/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
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Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Top Rope ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2013-05-01
(View Climbing Log)
Eh, not that memorable
Makes for a warmup
Added: 2013-05-28
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: trungmvo on 2012-01-28
(View Climbing Log)
Duracell
The anchor location is a little hard to get to, and once you're there, it's pretty sketchy. Lot's of loose dirt sloping towards the cliff, so be careful and make sure you're tied in to something. For a top-rope anchor, we used the smallish pine and the big block, but you can probably use the pair of pines as well. We slung our anchors so that the masterpoint hung about 10 feet below the edge in order to avoid dragging our climbing rope on the rock. Make sure you have sufficient slings/cordelettes if you're looking to do the same.
Just like the route description says, start on the bench-like setback just to the right of a bush (which can get in the belayer's way, by the way). Follow the crack and then go straight up.
Note: there are some unofficial routes to the left of Duracell, maybe 5.7 or so. We built an anchor off of the solid lone pine to the left of the pair of pines. Alternatively, you can use the pair of pines.
Just like the route description says, start on the bench-like setback just to the right of a bush (which can get in the belayer's way, by the way). Follow the crack and then go straight up.
Note: there are some unofficial routes to the left of Duracell, maybe 5.7 or so. We built an anchor off of the solid lone pine to the left of the pair of pines. Alternatively, you can use the pair of pines.
Added: 2012-01-28
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: Climber14 on 2010-10-29
(View Climbing Log)
Good Warm-Up
Just a little confusing about were to start.
Added: 2010-10-29
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: Rmsyll on 2008-05-17
(View Climbing Log)
Riley and Erin
There were weekend groups in the usual popular places, so Riley lead to the left of here to rig this one for them. The anchors were gear beneath the left end of the huge roof, so the easiest lines were to the left of the rope and it took some work to get up to the finish face. What looks like an easier crack, isn't. It was a good work-out, and Erin agreed with 5.8 for the line she used. Riley found some harder parts to the right.
Added: 2008-05-17
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll on 2008-03-21
(View Climbing Log)
my turn
After watching Terry's bunch on it, I had to try it too. My rope was too far right, using a block under the roof and a small Pine, instead of the pair of sturdy Pines. Kelley's 5.8 seems to me to be up there, if you stay on the thin faces. But following various cracks allows a juggy route with no real difficulty: making this a good one to do differently each time, trying to make it harder. Getting down to the anchors is much harder than we are used to at Pilot, however, and then you have to do it back up. And the most lichens on the climb, too.
Added: 2008-03-21
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Top Rope ascent by: 6stringdisaster on 2008-03-19
(View Climbing Log)
Duracell
good clean fun but setting the toprope is death!
Added: 2008-03-19
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
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Top Rope ascent by: DaGeck0 on 2008-03-18
(View Climbing Log)
Duracell
No Comment
Added: 2008-03-19
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
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Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll on 2008-03-16
(View Climbing Log)
more activity
Terry Dash has been using this area for many years, and had his large NCSU group here on Sunday after wearing out the Bears area. He uses two pines on the slope above for anchors. The preferred start was a sloping flake to the right, judged 5.6 to the 5.7 face. The maybe 5.8 overhang halfway was a stopping point for some, but others made it to the top and liked it a lot.
Added: 2008-03-18
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by: Rmsyll on 2008-03-02
(View Climbing Log)
Tom and Ann did it
Tom came down to the west edge of the roof and set anchors at a tree and with gear underneath the big overhang where there is a crawl ledge. That puts the rope perfectly for this route, and usable to the right also where Kelly's "finger pockets" are. It is pure face climbing. It can be thin, but is nicely sloped too. Interesting but not, for Ann, more than 5.7 (she also down-climbed the whole thing). To set anchors to the right from the top ledge, there is an odd slab to crawl over, and Tom thought the 5.10 area was not worth doing that. But that next line to the right is more like 5.8, with some long reaches for the few holds.
Added: 2008-03-02