I have heard the consensus frm others that it is more likely consistent 5.10c/d on the crux sections rather than 5.11. Is this correct? I agree that the upper crack corner pitch can be made less painful if one tapes the hands....preserve your blood!
The first three pitches on this wall, no matter the route, are great. After that, the rock can be brutal on the fingers and hands. The 3rd, 4th and 6th pitches are all equally stiff, requiring completely different climbing. 3rd is fun face problems requiring balance. The 4th is a an awesome roof-corner issue, the 6th is a really nasty sharp steep corner that is sure to make you bleed. I love the area. Really surprising setting to be sure.