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Ascent Notes for: Central Cleft - 5.6 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars lead

Remembered following this a while back (hey look, so does RC.com) and decided to wrap up the day with this.

Actually pretty fun, lots of options. Staying in the cleft/chimney has a few slightly harder moves but the route will take about as much gear as you can throw at it. Falls where the chimney is wide could be rather messy. Most of the rock seemed ok, except for the thin plate about halfway up with a hole through the middle - be careful how you use that. Getting around without putting too much weight on it was the crux for me. Meander right towards the top to end up at the Southern Exposure station. Full single rope rap.

Added: 2011-10-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars On par with several other easier Moore's routes

This is the appealing and obvious feature left of Southern Exposure and a bit left of its rap line. It's a nice long route (about 100') of decent climbing the whole way up. One suspect flake to negotiate around and a few licheny bits but generally decent gear options. The line we took dodged the Southern Exposure chimney so that we didn't really overlap with that route at all but ended at the same place. A little more exciting near the top. I'd say it's probably as good as Easy Hard or Washboard; it should get more traffic.

edit: initially I thought this was the rap line and posted there, but now that I think about it, we most likely did this route.

Added: 2010-05-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars No big gear required.

Rope soloed this fun line. Just watch for a bit of loose rock and don't inhale the lichen. Stem and use the jugs outside the crack for the harder bits. Seemed to have been done before. Can be done with gear up to #3 Camalot, though a 4" piece is nice to have.

Added: 2008-06-27

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