Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: East of Eden - 5.10c Average Rating : 4.38/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
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Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Red Point ascent by: andrewG on 2011-08-24
(View Climbing Log)
Fun climb
Varied climbing. I'd rack a half set of nuts (every other), slings, doubles .5-1, and a 3 or 4 for near the bottom. There are lots of gear options though.
Added: 2011-08-26
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2010-07-24
(View Climbing Log)
Sweatee
The humidity must have been around 80% when I did this one and it was dirty from recent rain. A distinct endurance crux where the wall steepens, the feet go away, and the crack diverges. Real good route although the bottom half can be quite dirty. Some of the footholds are shiny so be careful.
Added: 2010-07-25
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: ClimbitToday on 2008-03-28
(View Climbing Log)
Sustained and burly crux....
This is a fantastic climb. Felt more like a 5.10c to me. The gear is bomber and the movement is fun.
Added: 2008-04-28
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-03-11
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_
apparently this used to be 5.9+ - sandbag! Nice varied climbing with a mix of face holds and jams. The crux is towards the top in the double cracks. Mostly green camelots (.75) and smaller gear. A couple other climbers told me this route is sometimes dirty but I found it to be clean with good climbing - just 15' of crap to plow through at the beginning.
Added: 2008-04-07
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by: crackrn on 2007-07-23
(View Climbing Log)
Warm up?
We forgot our guide books and I thought this was a 5.9; whoops! It did not go very well...need to do this again for sure.
Added: 2007-07-23
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2007-05-28
(View Climbing Log)
way tough
this thing is hard, way hard. i'd say its harder than Torpedo or Loose Lips....came damn close to blowing off up top! prolly the best .10 at the forks, though!
Added: 2007-05-28
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: cragmar on 2004-05-06
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hardddd
Wasn't this originally rated 5.9?? Great route: awkward, strenuous, varied. Even at 10C, a stout line. Question of the day: If somebody pointed a gun at your head and said you had to choose between soloing this route or the Prow (11A), which would you choose?
The obvious choice: The Prow.
The obvious choice: The Prow.
Added: 2007-05-06
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: crackmd on 2006-11-21
(View Climbing Log)
East of Eden
I didn't know Shelley but I was thinking about her all the way up this fantastic route. So sad!
Added: 2006-11-21
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Red Point ascent by: mandrake on 2005-09-11
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Ascent Note
Wow! Put everything I had into this route and barely eke'd it out. A .5 and two .75 camalots provided bomber pro for the crux section. Used one #1 camalot down low and nothing larger anywhere on it.
Added: 2005-09-11
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Red Point ascent by: movingoverstone on 2005-03-14
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Ascent Note
My first RP took a long time, pump pump pump.
Witnessed by: Tam
Added: 2005-03-14
Added: 2005-03-14