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Ascent Notes for: Black Magic Woman - 5.11b Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: criscokid on 2007-03-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FA info

We were working a new variation on the Black Rose slab itself and noticed the holds on the edge of the block. We ran back to the car and got the drill and had this guy ready to go within 30 minutes or so. We then had to leave for some reason (I cannot remember why) and come back. When we came back we were worried when we saw someone working on the route! Luckily, they quit after we got back to the base. We considered adding a bolt to the upper slab but the flake seemed too thin to take a bolt safely. Plus it was so easy, we decided that it wasn't worth it. But we are having second thoughts now and might go add one soon.
I have heard about a different sequence using the right side (as described above) but we couldn't make it work on the FA and the arete pinch made so much more sense.

Added: 2009-08-15

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