Ascent Notes for: Beacons to Mars - 5.10d Average Rating : 4.67/5

Finally climbed this thing to the top. Replaced most of the bad bolts on the way and beefed up all the anchors. Linked pitches 6 and 7 in the cottrell guide. Funky pitch that is. You head up the big headwall strait up going either right (past old bolt) and up that thin corner (good gear) or walking the thin ledge out left. Don't worry the anchors are up there. You just can't see them until you get there. The rest of the route is pretty casual. The lead bolts on pitch 8 still need replaced but the climbing is easy and you don't really need them except to stay on route.

I only climbed to the top of the 5th pitch, but the route is great. The anchors and bolts above the 4th pitch need to be replaced in a bad way.

Only went to the top of pitch 4. The fifth pitch had old bolts and looked like there was some recent rockfall. It's a shame the rest of the route has not been re-bolted. I'd love to and may still climb to the top soon. Maybe replace the bolts on my way back down.

Excellent route. The run outs are 25ft in some spots but usually on easy moves with any harder moves being just above the bolt. Pretty safe for an R rated route and a good one for the aspireing R climber.