Ascent Notes for: Mystic River - 5.8 Average Rating : 4.00/5

The top of this climb was covered in lichen, dirt, chossy crap, didn't feel secure, so let down off 3rd to last bolt. Well bolted route though, perhaps a few too many?

I didn't like the top of this climb the first time I lead it, so I didn't finish it, but it was cool on TR, so I'll finish the lead next time.

Nice and long.

Lots of diverse movements for a 5.8 route. It is a lot of fun. There is some slabby stuff, some off balance stemming, and plenty more. It is heavily bolted, especially for the first half of the route. There are 2 anchors to choose from...the spray painted ones basically along the bolt line and the shiny new ones off the bolt line more up the crack line that would take a serious traverse to get to on lead. I used the anchors on the bolt line. If you follow the bolt line, the rock quality is good and clean...if you follow the crack after it diverges from the bolt line, it gets a little chossy.

New favorite warm-up route. Rock quality gets stellar after the initial 20 feet. Varied. Fun. Safe. Pretty long and always in the shade.

After four days of cleaning and trundling loose blocks and choss, Mystic River was calling my name. The FA went quickly and smoothly at the end of a long day of brushing and sweeping. An excellent route, if I say so myself. :-)

2nd ascent. Mystic River is fun, the moves are interesting and the protection is stellar. Nice exposure on good, well featured rock. An outstanding addition to the Grotto.