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Turn On, Tune In, Drop Out, 16 - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Premier Sponsor:
Clinton Beavin, Sarah Adcock
Rock (Trad)
PG13
3
Up to 4 bolts/pitch, wires, cams, chain anchors
200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

P. 1)15: Step up and over the low roof on the far left, where the right leaning crack starts. Follow the crack up and through the overhanging bulge (2 bolts+gear, or all natural). Anchor at the left set of chains. P. 2)16: Continue straight up the short steep wall, over the lip and up the slab, trending right (4 bolts). P. 3)14: Traverse across the right leaning ledge. The runouts between bolts can be made a little less scary with some small wires (4 bolts).

Descent Options:

Rap 40m from the ledge. There are a set of chains mid-way.

Submitted by: sbaclimber on 2006-11-24
Views: 1684
Route ID: 81305

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: skurdeycat on 2002-10-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars N/A

One of the two best climbs I did that day, just lots of fun all the way, even if I did only second it with a guide. The other great climb doesn't seem to be listed, it was called something like Shortcut to Exposure, almost identical to High E in The Gunks, only with bolts, and better scenery.

Added: 2007-01-10