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Buffalo Brothers - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 3.57/5 Average Rating : 3.57 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Premier Sponsor:
Brian Spiewak & Chris Hubbard (FA ground up)
Rock
PG13
1
bolts
190
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.80/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.40/5

Description:

Climb "Noobie Takes A Hike" to the second set of rap anchors, then climb up the bolts to the left through some fun terrain. Long, 190' pitch or 2 shorter pitches. 12 bolts

Submitted by: trenchdigger on 2005-10-23
Views: 2923
Route ID: 71114

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: tyler_o_melvin on 2007-01-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Buffalo Brothers

A really killer climb! Starts at the end of the first pitch of Noobie. Crux is right at second and third bolts, passing over a 10-15 foot high shelf-like feature, including a really cool undercling! Easy and really fun climbing above to the first rap anchors. Forced to belay from here due to rope drag (would definitely recommend slings on first few bolts to avoid this). Route continues above through slightly harder climbing to final belay ledge on a large block above a dirt ledge, avoiding an uncomfortable belay on the slab below. Overall, route was well protected, especially at cruxes, but in my opinion deserves a PG13 rating due to bolt spacing at easier parts (I seem to recall spacing 20ft or so at some easy parts). Definitely safe though for leaders who are very comfortable leading in the 5.8 range. Crux felt more like 5.8 to me, similar to the majority of the easier climbing on Leonids, but most was in the 5.6-5.7 range. ****!

Added: 2007-01-29