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Mike's Books - 5.6 popular

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
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Rock (Trad)
2
Pro to 3.5", bolted rap chains atop each pitch
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.44/5
  Rock Quality 4.39/5
  Scenery 4.25/5
  Fun Factor 4.31/5

Description:

Popular 2-pitch offwidth/chimney dihedral on the south side of formation, located to the left of The Waterchute. Original 5.6 start goes up the face at about 15' to the left of the crack, then traversing right across a slopey ledge to get to the dihedral. The 5.8 direct start goes up an awkward trough that has a short finger crack inside. The second pitch begins at about 15' to the left of the bolted rap anchor of the first pitch, across the spacious ledge. One bolt protects the second pitch slab topout.

Descent Options:

2 raps.

Submitted by: baja_java on 2005-03-03
Last Modified: 2007-01-28
Views: 3517
Route ID: 6351

Ascent Note:

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2008-12-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route

We actually ended up just doing the first pitch. Did the traverse start - which wasn't hard, but has a pretty committing move to swing over into the dihedral. Not that hard - but surprised me for a 5.6. The first pitch was great - a mix of crack and face, and lots of stemming across the dihedral. Bolt anchors at the top of pitch 1.

We got confused on the 2nd pitch - and went up an awful off-width that was simply not fun. After going halfway up, I ended up bailing on it and coming back to the top of the first pitch, and we rapped down. The 2nd pitch moves to the left, up another dihedral. We felt it better not to belay the 2nd pitch from the bolts, but slung the giant boulder at the base of the dihedral.

Added: 2009-01-03