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Rock
Gear to 4"
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Description:
A great route and if you're quick, a great start for Solar Slab. Start in a corner about 100' left of Johnny Vegas and cruise up the chimney passing a single bolt. Belay at a nice stance below the obvious crux above. (5.6, 150') Pitch 2: Head up through the squeeze chimney and then up the corner above. At the roof, step left to a two bolt belay. (5.9, 180') Pitch 3: From here, head up the slab, generally heading right and up, arriving at the large pile of boulders for belay. (5.6, 180') Note: A 5.8 bolted variation exists for the 2nd pitch- Head out left onto the face and arete for about 50' - 60' before heading back right to the corner. It may be wise to belay here before doing the corner if you do this route. Variation Start Info: The alternate start is ~10 feet left of the main start. From the ground, climb on to big block, and move into a right facing corner with a dark varnished face. Corner is thin fingers and protects well. Continue up corner to ~5 feet below roof (protects with green camalot- watch out for rope drag) and traverse right onto face for ~10 feet back to route and up to belay in the chimney. Corner is maybe 5.9 and traverse is 10a.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-01-26
Views: 1881
Route ID: 11345
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Stellar second pitch
If the second pitch were on the ground with rap anchors installed, people would be gang-banging the shit out of it. As for gear, a #4 is a must-have; a #5 wouldn't go unused. First and last pitch are really ho-hum, but there are beautiful views to be had at the top and it is blessedly sunny to boot.
Added: 2010-01-21
