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Description:
A great route and if you're quick, a great start for Solar Slab. Start in a corner about 100' left of Johnny Vegas and cruise up the chimney passing a single bolt. Belay at a nice stance below the obvious crux above. (5.6, 150') Pitch 2: Head up through the squeeze chimney and then up the corner above. At the roof, step left to a two bolt belay. (5.9, 180') Pitch 3: From here, head up the slab, generally heading right and up, arriving at the large pile of boulders for belay. (5.6, 180') Note: A 5.8 bolted variation exists for the 2nd pitch- Head out left onto the face and arete for about 50' - 60' before heading back right to the corner. It may be wise to belay here before doing the corner if you do this route. Variation Start Info: The alternate start is ~10 feet left of the main start. From the ground, climb on to big block, and move into a right facing corner with a dark varnished face. Corner is thin fingers and protects well. Continue up corner to ~5 feet below roof (protects with green camalot- watch out for rope drag) and traverse right onto face for ~10 feet back to route and up to belay in the chimney. Corner is maybe 5.9 and traverse is 10a.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-01-26
Views: 1881
Route ID: 11345
Ascent Note:
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Interesting route
The 1st pitch goes left of the big chimney - look for a single bolt 30 feet up. 5.8 variation to the left of the flare is a blast, nice exposure and fun moves. There is a rap station on the 2nd pitch now after 100 ft, can easily climb to the next station at 160 ft, cliping 1 bolt along the way. The rest of the climb is OK, but not as exciting.
Added: 2011-10-12
