Crimposaurus's Logbook (10 ascents)

Real quality boulder problem to start, then just follow the rail. Short but fun.

More like a V.4 highball, hard to put a 5. grade on this because of how short it is. Nonetheless a quality climb on good rock.

Wow! I didn't know 5.10's could be this good! Semi-hard start leads to one of the best .10's I have ever climbed. Pockets, crimps, a pinch or two, and you have the recipe for a wonderfully long and fun route with a great view at the anchors. This is one of those routes that you simply must do every time you visit Smith.

One of the first hard routes I have been able to flash at Smith over the two times I have been there. This route made my day and my trip. An easy start gives you a good rest and then boom, all of a sudden your climbing a bolted crack! The crack has some awesome liebacks and a couple of sustained moves but ultimately leads you to a great rest before busting out onto some face climbing with sharp positive pockets. The crux is pretty much the last move off of a shallow pocket to a huge jug. All of the people I have talked to say it is 5.11d, it felt a little easier than some of the .11d's I have been on at Smith but hey I'll take it! A great route that really mixes it up and keeps things interesting.

One of the shorter routes on the wall. A fun start on good holds leads to a confusing crux, do you go left or right? Turns out you can go either way, but I found that high stepping and reaching up right was the best way for me. Overall a good route that actually stays dry most of the year, or at least it was dry when I was there and a lot of the other routes were wet. Another good warm up.

Awesome route that traverses right and then cuts straight up over a ledge and onto the finishing bulge. I did this route when it was partially wet, or when the most important hold was wet, a pinch at the crux but it turns out you can do the move without it. In the end I would definitely do this route again, it had a fun traversing start on good holds and it was long enough to keep me entertained.

What a great route to build endurance and stamina on. Long and pumpy on huge holds leads to a great crux at the end that keeps you on your toes. This is the kind of route that you can train on to crush any project. It definitely taught me how to take advantage of good rests on big holds.

This is such a good route if big somewhat thuggish moves are your forte. I enjoy it thoroughly as a warm up and a warm down considering how short it is. Nonetheless, one of the best routes on the wall due to the quality of the moves and the rock, the only reason it deserves a 5.11 is because of the steepness of the route and the beginning sequence can be a bit confusing. Great route overall, whether you project 5.11 or warm up on it.

I first tried this route at the end of september in '06 and rested quite a bit past the first crux. After that this route has been on my mind ever since and I jumped at the chance to get back on it when I made my first trip of the year to Exit 38. The wall was pretty wet but I had to give it a shot and after my first try and a 15 minute rest I got phsyched and pushed to the top for the redpoint. This is one of the best routes on this wall, in my opinion, with great crux moves on positive crimpers, and awesome jug hauling up an intimidating, overhanging wall of high quality rock.

What an aesthetic line! I loved the crux and how it made you look over the other side of the arrette in terror. One hard move off a crimp and then your home free. Good job on the bolting as well.