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FloydHayes's Logbook (9 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Northern California: Land of the Lost: Sunset Spire

Fire it up Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: FloydHayes on 2013-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun climb!

Third climb from the left, just right of the arete. Initially overhanging and then nearly vertical, sustained with big holds that require some searching. About 45' high and well protected.

Added: 2013-08-12

Routes: North America: United States: California: Northern California: Land of the Lost: Sunset Spire

HellifIknow Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: FloydHayes on 2013-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice climb!

You can clip a fifth bolt--the sixth on Fire it Up (the route to the right)--before topping out. The route is about 45' high.

Added: 2013-08-12

Routes: North America: United States: California: Northern California: Land of the Lost: Sunset Spire

Unknown Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: FloydHayes on 2013-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Easy!

This is the bolted route at the far left side, about 45' high. There are four, not five bolts. The first bolt is way up but it's easy getting there either directly from below (more fun) or from the right. The fourth is near the top where it's only class 3 if you step left.

Added: 2013-08-12

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Glacier Point Apron: Apron

Anchors Away Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: FloydHayes on 1983-06-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fixed Pin

Back in 1983 I took my longest leader fall, a 30-footer, while trying to clip the 5th bolt. It was 6" above my outstretched fingers while I stood on a tiny but comfortable ledge beneath--I fell while trying to reach it. According to notes in my climbing journal, the 40' runout to the first bolt was protected somewhere by a fixed pin.

Added: 2012-01-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Northern California: Bidwell Park: Devil's Kitchen

Devil's Classic B Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: FloydHayes on 2010-07-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars At least 5.10c

I managed to flash it--but barely--on my first attempt. Definitely harder than Devil's Classic, surely harder than 5.10b, maybe 5.10d, I'd go with at least 5.10c.

Added: 2010-07-26

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Royal Arches: Royal Arches

Peruvian Flake Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: FloydHayes on 2007-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome finger crack!

The lower crux portion of the route becomes shaded by mid-afternoon. This route protects very well (I used 9 pieces plus a horn sling). The crux is a 10' finger crack that eats small cams (I sewed it up with 3). There are ample places to rest just below and about 10' above the crux. The manzanita on the belay ledge was crawling with ants. I broiled in the sun on the belay ledge while my son cleaned, but afterward realized I could have scrambled 20' back toward the wall and belayed in the shade of a tree.

Added: 2008-06-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Church Bowl: Church Bowl

Church bowl lieback Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: FloydHayes on 2005-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sweet liebacking!

This climb protects very well with either cams or nuts (I used 9 pieces) and has a few pumpy but short sections followed by decent rests. I thought it was a bit mellow for 5.8. At the top the crack splits into two; the left variation leads directly to the belay anchor on a tree.

Added: 2008-06-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Church Bowl: Church Bowl

Revival Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: FloydHayes on 2007-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun roof moves

This climb is very well protected until the top. A nut or two can be slotted beneath the crux mini-roof. Save a few medium-sized cams for the mini-roof and crack above (I used a #3 Metolius cam in the roof and a #6 Metolius cam high in the crack above). From the fixed pin there is about 12' (maybe less) of 5.8 face to the next crack for pro, but this can be easily bypassed by traversing about 20' left on a narrow (1-2") ledge (about 5.5 but no pro) to the top of Church Bowl Lieback. If taking the traverse option (which I took), scramble up to the next tree to belay so the follower can't pendulum into the corner of Church Bowl Lieback. I used 8 pieces of gear and clipped into a bolt and fixed pin above the roof. The crux is probably the move reaching up to the roof, but for a leader the crux is hanging on to place gear in the crack above the roof.

Added: 2008-06-05

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Church Bowl: Church Bowl

Black is Brown Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: FloydHayes on 2007-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Tricky route-finding

Above the first ledge there are two cracks. I chose the left, which I thought was much harder than 5.8, and used a large cam (Camalot #4) with protection at the waist for the crux lieback move. My son cleaned it and we both thought it was at least 5.10a, compared with other 5.10s we recently climbed in the valley. A third companion was unable to do it but instead climbed the lower angle crack a few feet to the right, which she said was much easier--and presumably the 5.8 version (I don't know how well it protects). Higher up after the big step to the right there appeared to be several options; what seemed easiest to me was a mixture of 5.8 face and crack climbing out to the far right and returning left to the main crack near the top. It protects reasonably well (I used 13 pieces) and there are plenty of resting places. Use long slings to avoid rope drag (or climb it in two pitches) and beware of some loose flakes that likely would not hold a fall.

Added: 2008-06-05