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KLYMERGURL's Logbook (43 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Superstition Mountains: The Hand

The Razors Edge popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2009-05-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great climb with Exposure Galore!

This was a great half day trip and a wonderful way to experience the Sups!

$5 to park in day use area. Hike to Hand took us about an hour but we were hiking slow cause it was kinda hot that morning. Watch for rattlesnakes...and GILA MONSTERS! Follow trail to highest point and follow trail left of bench up rocky slope, through saddle and up to the Hand. The trail takes you to a spot where it seem like the climb should start but you actually walk down the hill and to the right to start in the gully.

We basically looked at 3 gullies in the beginning, all looking pretty much like 4th class scrambles. We started on the one on the far left (the hardest looking one) but ran into a wasps nest. Went to the middle one and it took us to the same spot - easy 4th class chimney scrambling. I think the far right gully wouldn't have worked out.

Gnats suck.

Moving on...

This whole route was pretty run out but we felt solid the whole time due to positive and easier climbing. There is a lot of new bolts (thanks!) that are bomber, a piton or two that I would feel sketchy hanging a plant from, and opportunity for exactly two pieces of gear (yellow TCU on 2nd pitch and brown tri-cam on 3rd pitch). Nothing else is really necessary cause of all the great shiny bolts. All the anchors are great.

Good anchor at the top of the first "pitch", although awkward for moving around one another for second pitch unless you're switching leads. Second pitch was great climbing - not neatly 5.6 though. The second anchor is awesomely exposed! I spent 10 minutes just trying to get a picture that would convey the fact that you are straddling a two foot wide piece of rock with a 100 foot drop-off on either side. (Side note: this picture is impossible to get really). Switching leaders is a bit awkward here as well due to the tiny ledge (chicken ledge) that you have to maneuver on. it's not impossible though.

Third pitch is the hardest climbing but is accurately rated 5.6 in my opinion. Found a large loose hold but all told, not too chossy; especially if you're used to Camelback, etc. Third pitch is amazing exposure! It'll get the best of them's hear pounding just a bit harder...in a good way.

Top anchor set-up is odd but bomber. We enjoyed the view and had a snack before rappelling. Two rope rappel. It was windy the day we went (very windy) so when we tossed our ropes (despite tossing them into the wind) one of them got hung up on a big ledge system under and to the climber's right of the rappel. (more on that in a moment) The rappel is almost free hanging in some parts and you have to land on a ledge (cave) and rappel past that. When we pulled our ropes (dues to the rope flying with the wind over to the right) it got very stuck. Luckily there is an easy scramble to the left of the rappel line where you can get to the massive cave and to where our rope caught.

Hike out was faster (obviously) and it was very nice to have cold running water at the end of the day. All told I believe it took us 5 hours and we were definitely taking our time.

Great day!

Added: 2009-05-17

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: The Throne

Squeeze Play Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2009-04-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice for beginnersq

Definately does have that "flow" and seemed to be good for my beginner friend. Still quite thin throughout most of it but this rock is so textured that they stay really positive whether you think they will or not. Also good climb to work on some crimps and mantles.

Added: 2009-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: The Throne

Dr. Giggles Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2009-04-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Excellent climb, I agree with Marty

I really liked this climb. It requires more sequencing than the rest of the 7s on this wall and I had fun figuring it out. Not hard climbing but still thin. It's all there, though. I'd give it three stars for the area, as Marty did in his guide.

Added: 2009-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: The Throne

The Jester Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2009-04-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Great climb

Good classic climb for this area. Definately include it if you're doing all the 7s on this wall like we did. From the bottom the top looks a bit tough but it actually has HUGE holds on it. I sat there and helped a friend climb next to me for a good 10 minutes or so. Great route. Well protected.

Added: 2009-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: The Throne

Cracker jack Crack Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2009-04-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun crack

I don;t really like crack but I liked this one. There were supplementary face moves and the whole thing is a little bit low angle. Love the area too. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. Lots of spots to sit and rest. Excellent!

Added: 2009-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Pinnacle Peak: Cactus Flower East

Wish You Were Here Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2009-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Well, kinda did the whole thing...

I wouldn't exactly call it hangdogging since it was only the dyno I couldn't do but in all fairness it wasn't redpointing either. Dyno is big! Friends who are taller came at it from the right and did good with that. I tried from the right and from directly below but both had me swinging into Banana Split or falling. Once I got to the top of the first huge hold I climbed it clean although it was very thin after that first hold.

Added: 2009-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Pinnacle Peak: Cactus Flower East

Live Oak Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2009-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Lots of Face on this Crack

Starts out with a big move stepping out from ledge onto actual climb. Crack is good for small gear placements. I liked it cause it had lots of face moves I could make and not have to worry much about actually crack climbing. A couple semi-thrashy points that could have easily been cleaned up by better crack technique. Hmmm, must work on that.

Added: 2009-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Pinnacle Peak: Cactus Flower East

Zenolith Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2009-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars An Act in Stretching

Really fun and challenging route, although a wee bit (and by that I mean A LOT A BIT) long for my 5' 2" but still fun once I got past the reachy start. There are intermediate holds but they're TINY! Did a really fun hand/foot match on the big chickenhead in the middle and from there it's just a little balancy (and a bit reachy still) to the top where there are good holds. Lots of body tensioning and such. The start was like vertical slab for me but my 6 foot tall couterparts had little problem on it.

Added: 2009-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: McDowell Mountains: Sven Slab

I Sinkso Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2009-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Note to self: no more climbing slab in the rain!

Go route but only on top rope. The crux is the first 15 feet so Squid Clip the first bolt or just top rope it. I've heard many people say that this 5.8 is easier than Ego Trip at 5.7. My opinion is that Sinkso's crux is more technical than Ego Trip's but easier to do route finding through since Ego Trip zig zags a lot. However, the rest of Sinkso does seem easier than the rest of Ego Trip. There is one other mini crux about half way up where the rock gets a little more vertical and there's one spot where it's pretty thin. Overall I think it's a 5.8+ while Ego Trip is a 5.8-. Then again, maybe I should try climbing it again when it's not raining! :-)

Added: 2009-01-09

Routes: North America: United States: Arizona: Phoenix Area: Queen Creek Canyon: Pond area

Follow Your Heart Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: KLYMERGURL on 2008-12-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Still a great one

I still love this climb. It's a great warm up and it's so well bolted. However, note to self, no climbing in QCC when it's in the low 50s in the Valley. TOO COLD! It actually snowed on us! Ugh.

Added: 2008-12-15

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