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ShawnIsBetter's Logbook (26 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Castle Valley: Castleton Tower

Kor-Ingalls popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-10-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Finally

The first pitch is the hardest 5.6 I've ever done in my life. Because of all the calcite it's like trying to climb out of a glass jar. Way strenuous. The second pitch is not so bad but don't take the line on the far left, the one with the bolt, like I did. Third pitch crux really wasn't that bad once I rested on the bolt and worked out the face climbing/stemming sequence in my head. Only two or three hard moves get you to calcite jugs. Not super hard but felt more like 5.10a/b then 5.9. On the next squeeze section go left side in and don't go too deep in the crack, it gets tight. Fourth pitch is the best pitch, straight forward climbing, short though. Rap the north face, you'll see 4 bolts and some chains. It's pretty scary cause there's so much air below you. At the bottom of the second rappel you have to swing over to the right to get to the ledge and anchors. It's kinda scary.

I hate calcite, shoes don't stick so it's kinda like climbing with roller skates on.

Overall it's not really fun climbing, more of a grunt fest, but it's well worth the blood and sweat.

Added: 2010-10-24

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Salt Lake - Utah Counties: Lone Peak Cirque: Summit Wall

Triple Overhangs Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars In a day!

Started hiking from alpine 6:00 am, got a bit lost and we ended on the backside of ? mark wall where we rapped down. We started climbing around noon. You have to do a bit of scrambling to get to the start of pitch one. The first pitch is short and easy but the belay station at the top sucks. Pitch two is a flaring shallow offwidth that's no fun to climb and less fun to protect, with a good belay ledge up top. Pitch 3 pretty easy, lots of flakes, good belay ledge. Pitch 4 is the hardest and the nicest, the triple overhangs were scary for me, but the hand crack following is the best 100 ft of the climb. Once completing the climb we scrabled another 100 ft or so to the summit for a great 360 view. Total climbing time was about 4 hours. Then we rapped, packed our shit and literally ran down most of the mountain back towards our car. Total trip time was about 14 hours, quite a long day. Sun up to sun down burleyness

Added: 2010-09-09

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Moab: Indian Creek: South Sixshooter

South Face Direct Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ..

The first 30 ft felt really hard. But desert trad is always hard for me. Trad 5.8 always seems like 5.10 sport. The summit is amazing but the climb is not super fun. It's blocky, chossy, tight squeezed, too much going around corners and not being able to see/hear your belayer. But I've climbed it four times just so I could bring people up it for the view and exposure. It's like being in an airplane. Very nice tower for those of us who can't make it up castleton.

Added: 2010-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Salt Lake - Utah Counties: American Fork Canyon: Little Mill - Division Wall

Black Hole Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars .

. it was a long time ago. I don't really remember much.

Added: 2010-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Salt Lake - Utah Counties: American Fork Canyon: Little Mill - Division Wall

Deep End Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Pumpy!

For some reason this route is super pumpy, it's good though, worth doing.

Added: 2010-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Salt Lake - Utah Counties: American Fork Canyon: Little Mill - Division Wall

Shark Club Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun!

I really liked this one. I was a long time ago when I climbed it but here's what I remember. It's pretty easy till the roof crux. If you're really strong you could probably pull the roof static but my partner and I both had to dyno it. That made it really fun, the dyno goes to a reall good jug, you just have to committ to it. Also, good idea to bring a long draw to protect the roof.

Added: 2010-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Salt Lake - Utah Counties: Little Cottonwood Canyon: Crescent Crack Buttress

Short Corner Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars .

Good climb to do while you're waiting for CC.

Added: 2010-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Central Utah: Joes Valley: Riverside

Kelly's arete Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars . .

Everyone seemed to be liking this problem. Everyone also seemed to be scared of the topout.

Added: 2010-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: Central Utah: Joes Valley: Man Size

brawny dyno Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars I liked this one.

I thought this was fun problem. It's really just one fun, big move then it's a sketch top out. Maybe it's best just to just do the dyno and end it there. It's all in the feet.

Added: 2010-06-25

Routes: North America: United States: Utah: St. George: St. George Area Crags: Turtle Wall: Turtle Wall

Turtle Soup Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ShawnIsBetter on 2010-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars .

It was a few months ago but I remember it feeling kinda hard half way up. Small holds, you really end up having to use shallow depressions in the wavy rock.

Added: 2010-06-25

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