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Spydamunkey's Logbook (6 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Phantasia

Creature Feature popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Spydamunkey on 2013-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Very wet during rains but climbable

Even though this climb is wet in the rain, there is plenty of sandstony friction to grip, even the roof at the beginning. After the roof, it's an easy slab with lots of jug holds.

Added: 2013-03-30

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): The Chocolate Factory

Robotic Thumb Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Spydamunkey on 2013-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Dry Climb in the Rain

This climb stays dry in a downpour, with only a little moisture near the anchors.

Added: 2013-03-30

Routes: North America: United States: Virginia: DC Metro - North Eastern: Great Falls Park: Romeo's Ladder

Romeo's right Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Spydamunkey on 2013-03-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good 5.8

This 5.8 could be good practice for sequencing and foot holds. Since it's a short route, I recommend drilling up and down it a few times until your climber can do it without resting takes.

Added: 2013-03-10

Routes: North America: United States: Virginia: DC Metro - North Eastern: Great Falls Park: Romeo's Ladder

Romeo's left Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Spydamunkey on 2013-03-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Crux near the diagonal crack

There are some fairly good foot placement, and some fancy holding onto the side of the cracks while keeping your body weight pulled to either side of the crack. Also, the guidebook shows the route going straight up, then the crack makes the route sharply start going to the right. Try to set your anchor a little more towards the middle of that diagonal crack, instead of way over to the right of the route that looks like the top of the diagonal crack.

Added: 2013-03-10

Routes: North America: United States: Virginia: DC Metro - North Eastern: Great Falls Park: Romeo's Ladder

Romeo' Ladder popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Spydamunkey on 2013-03-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Foot action drill

Each of the routes at this "Romeo's Ladder" section of Great Falls State Park have very slippery footholds, making 5.6's feel a little harder. Someone who is very skilled at foot sequencing will do well on it. Beginners will find it very challenging to figure out foot placement.

Added: 2013-03-10

Routes: North America: United States: Virginia: DC Metro - North Eastern: Great Falls Park: Aid Box

The Box Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Spydamunkey on 2013-03-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great warmup for first-time climbers

I left my gray climbing helmet here, left for a few minutes, came back and someone had picked it up (possibly to take to lost and found, but the rangers haven't received it yet). This route is easy to tie an anchor and walk down to the bottom (no rapelling down from the top necessary). Very short route, so drill up and down it a few times to get the most out of the anchor you set. Lots of curious onlookers will love to watch you for their entertainment pleasure at this popular tourists "hiking" (aka strolling by) area of Great Falls State Park, historic site of canal locks and channels during river transportation days in the 1800s. Very scenic views of kayakers and white water rapids in the Potomac River while climbing.

Added: 2013-03-09