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Steve704's Logbook (84 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (11)



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Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Vancouver Island North: Strathcona Park: Mt. Colonel Foster

Cataract Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2016-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Cataract Arete

Adrian Surdu and I climbed The Cataract Arete on Mount Colonel Foster this past weekend. 14 hrs on the route. Managed to do it all in daylight thanks to Hunter's amazingly helpful beta which allowed us to find the rap anchor within moments of arriving. Solo'd the lower half of the route until after the rap when we roped up and pitched it out or simul-climbed for the upper half, which had some relatively decent rock considering its the east face of Foster. There were a few more decent belays than I thought there would be, but also more than a few not so great ones as well. Managed to finish the route literal minutes before dark, and were treated with the most amazing bivvy at the upper snowfield with running water. Awoke to rain and decided to quickly make our way up the snow field and down the Great West Couloir, but as we arrived at the first rap hesitated, and just then the rain stopped and we ended up going for it. Took a little bit of route finding but getting from the upper snow field to the Main Summit wasn't bad at all, and was pretty spot on from the guide's description for details and time. All in all a very long, committing climb, on an incredibly stunning feature, on a challenging peak, that was well worth the effort.

Added: 2016-08-25

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Banff-Lake Louise: Haffner Creek

The Boyd Mystery Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a WI5 M8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Steve704 on 2016-03-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best route in Haffner Creek, just Lead it!!!

Bouldery pump fest to clear the lower roof. Definitely stick clip the 2nd usable bolt, like everyone who climbs this route does. Even then it is possible to see ground fall. After the roof it's not so bad and there's a good rest in there, but it's a battle against the pump to gain the ice. On the onsight attempt my right tool sheared while mounting the ice and I took a 20 ft whipper, but got it clean on second attempt.

Added: 2016-04-12

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Banff-Lake Louise: Haffner Creek: haffner left

Californication M7- Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI4 M7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2016-01-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First mixed route at Haffner

Haffner is amazing. This was a seriously awesome intro to mixed climbing in haffner creek. Good ice, into bomber bolts, into some strenuous moves onto the pillar above. Awesome climb! Led it 2 or three times that day.

Added: 2016-02-19

Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Near Field: Mt Dennis: Mt Dennis Ice

Cascade Kronenbourg Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2016-02-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Soft for grade

Definitely is easy shape this year. Much easier than Central Pillar a few days earlier. Didn't clip any weirdly positioned bolts. Upper pillar wasn't bad. Traverse was simple albeit unprotected. maybe WI5-

Added: 2016-02-19

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Banff-Lake Louise: Haffner Creek: haffner left

Half a Gronk Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty M6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Steve704 on 2016-01-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Super fun

Awesome corner...felt a bit tougher than M5 to me...maybe I messed it up

Added: 2016-02-19

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Jasper: Weeping Wall Area: Weeping Wall

Central Pillar Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI6
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2016-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Whoa!!!

Found a tiny little sheltered belay, just left of the main center cave. Second pitch was crux. 50m of extremely chandeliered ice, with highly questionable pro. Good tool placements were seriously tough and required lots of cleaning to get, and decent screws needed 12" plus of digging through icicles to find half decent placements, even then, half the screws were suspect.

Added: 2016-02-19

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Banff-Lake Louise: Lake Louise: Louise Falls

Lake Louise Falls Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2015-12-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 5+ today

Right hand pillar barely touching. Climbed Left hand side, extremely chandeliered ice. Stiff grade 5 today....Partner whipped while following when a tool blew out...bomber screws everywhere except the pillar which was tough to protect.

Added: 2016-02-19

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: Grotto Canyon: Grotto Canyon

His Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2015-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fat

His is fat, and climbed well right up the middle, good screws. In uncomfy with the run out in the middle clip long runner to bolts on left if not iced up

Added: 2016-02-19

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Canmore: Grotto Canyon: Grotto Canyon

Sketch and Sniff Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c M6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2015-12-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First Rockies mixed route

Great climb...felt very secure for what I expected. Definitely felt easier than what I expects M6+ to feel like...

Added: 2016-02-19

Routes: North America: Canada: British Columbia: Near Field: Mt Dennis: Mt Dennis Ice

Carlsberg Column Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty WI5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Steve704 on 2015-12-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars beat up

a bit beat up, but still in WI5 shape...Classic

Added: 2016-02-19

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