aarona's Logbook (7 ascents)

Less crimpy than Eggs McMeadows - but not much. A bit of a break in the middle, but save some energy for the last 10 feet.

Nice warm up. Even though the route was wet at the bottom (remnants of Hurricane Isabel), it was dry at the top.

This felt more like a 5.4 or 5.5 - especially for the second. It is a traverse along a ridge with nothing but lichen on the far side. Every time the second unclips, they are set up for a nice pendulum. Otherwise, a nice climb.

Really fun climb. Felt easier than the 5.9 rating (I was toproping). Felt easier than the 5.8 Junco nearby. Nice jugs and arthritis-friendly holds. Crux comes as you reach the top of the corner - it looks impossible but I went right and out onto the arete. It may be a variation of "love honor and belay" but that is a 5.9 too. Fantastic view from the top.

I watched a girl fall while leading at the crux and thought, \"That doesn\'t look that hard\". It was. There are almost no feet on this route. Holds are \"slopers\" until you get to the crack, then it\'s all layback to the top. Just work along the crack. If you don\'t enjoy this route, try love nest - totally different climb on the same face.

This is a great beginner route if you want to practice multipitch technique without worrying about pro. Great friction on the schist at the bottom. Crux is one bolt before the first stage anchors, but it isn't terribly difficult and the protection is very good. Outstanding view from one of the highest points in Rumney.

The rap off the top can be done in 3 stages - you can come down via the pine tree route and avoid other climbers coming up this route. Rap rings are attached to the trees. A 50 meter will work, but you will end up about 3 meters short of the
second tree - but the terrain there is only Class 4 so you can get off belay and set the next rap up without having to be on belay - Don't forget to put knots in your rope before you rap or you will go off the end before you reach the bottom.

My first multipitch trad climb without a guide. My 11 year old son led the first and last pitches. Had problems with rope drag, and lost track of the route after the crux. Took my first leader fall right after the crux (got pulled off a hold by the rope drag!). Still here to talk about it.