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anson's Logbook (44 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Donner Summit: School Rock

Junior High Crack popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anson on 2005-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Yes, the ramp to the right is easier on the first pitch crux, but I ended up mantling to the left of the wide crack. Of the upper variations, stay to the right--the left one is pretty boring.

Added: 2005-08-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Donner Summit: Black Wall

Rated X popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: anson on 2005-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I rested on the rope at the crux. No real excuse: I just lacked chutzpah at that particular moment. Otherwise, it was a clean ascent, and I recommend the route highly for those who enjoy short, fun routes.

Added: 2005-08-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Donner Summit: Grouse Slabs - Southeast Face

Insidious Crack popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anson on 2005-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A nice climb, but I don't believe it deserves the 'classic' status it has been given. The Carville guide's assertion that the first 'pitch' is the third-class scramble to the base of the climb is utterly ridiculous. This was a one-pitch climb for me with a 60m rope.

Added: 2005-08-28

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Magician

Magic Dragon Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anson on 2005-08-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

The crux was airy, and the lead-up to it built the tension tremendously, but the moves themselves were not particularly difficult. They were also obvious, which was nice. This route was a great introduction to Needles climbing, especially the runout but easy slab. I should add that Tim and I did a very fun variation on the last pitch, with a 5.8 but very, very committing move onto the right/southeast side of the prow of rock on which the fire outlook sits.

Witnessed by: tim
Added: 2005-08-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: Western Sierra: Needles: The Warlock

The Howling Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anson on 2005-08-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Note: I onsighted the first pitch only. I followed Tim's lead on the second pitch. The step off the knife arete on the second pitch was amazingly exposed! I look forward to redpointing the second pitch at some point in the future.

Witnessed by: tim
Added: 2005-08-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Lower Buttress

Surrealistic Pillar popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anson on 2005-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I'm crediting myself a clean ascent despite having to weight the rope with about half my weight to untie a shoelace that clipped itself into my pro at the one and only place in the climb where I couldn't downclimb to deal with it. Believe me, I was quite pumped after dealing with it!

Added: 2005-07-17

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Lower Buttress

The Farce Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anson on 2005-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

The Farce's routefinding will put your brain through the blender trying to figure out which dike looks easiest to hold on to. Ultimately, I decided the heck with it, and climbed at least two off-route bits that looked too fun to pass up. Please remember that at the start, the rocks you're standing on are quite capable of hurting parties starting The Groove if you dislodge them, and tread with care.

Added: 2005-07-16

Routes: North America: United States: California: Lake Tahoe: Lovers Leap: Main Wall

Corrugation Corner popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anson on 2005-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Deserves its incredible reputation. A very, very fun romp.

Added: 2005-07-16

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Knob Hill: Knob Hill

Moving To Montana Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anson on 2005-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Fun for the first half pitch, but then degrades into mostly boring easy slab. The crux move is a great moment of friction committment for the aspiring granite slab leader.

Added: 2005-06-08

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Knob Hill: Knob Hill

Pot Belly Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anson on 2005-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A very fun and ego-enhancing 5.6 crack atop a very balancy and probably 5.9 slab. The guidebook rating seems to be some sort of average. :)

Added: 2005-06-08

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