Skip to Content

Routes : Reviews

bigwally's Logbook (9 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (0)



Show: Sort by: Display:

Comments:  Show | Hide


Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Eastern Wy.: Devils Tower: Devils Tower

California Dreaming Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bigwally on 2007-11-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A Lotta Work, But soooo Worthwhile

Saw this route after climbing Buster Cattlefield in July of 1989. Worked with Liana Kirk (the Most Lovely Partner in the World), cleaned and added the neccessary bolts in the lower section. Chris Engle joined us for the Red Point Ascent. It is a very Safe, though Challenging pitch.

Added: 2007-11-16

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Eastern Wy.: Devils Tower: Devils Tower

Dancing With The Devils After Dark Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 A3+
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bigwally on 2006-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars New Route with The Chossmonkey !!

Encouraged by our sucess at putting a new route on the North West face, Nate and I took up a very improbable looking line on the Steep South West Face. 22 hours of climbing, hanging and rapping late we had made the Tower Top and returned to the ground. Sunlight came and went but the smiles stayed Bright all the way !!

Added: 2007-11-15

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Eastern Wy.: Devils Tower: Devils Tower

Assembly Line popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bigwally on 1976-08-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Beautiful ! Beautiful !! BEAUTIFUL !!!

Led this one on stoppers & hexes, with Dingus McGee holding the rope and leading cheers. One could never ask for a better Partner or Teacher !!!

Added: 2007-11-01

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Eastern Wy.: Devils Tower: Devils Tower

McCarthy North Face Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bigwally on 1978-05-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Thank You Jim McCarthy

Climbed this one with Dingus McGee, way back when 5.11 meant somthing. Beautiful Line, Incredible Time !! Thank You, Dennis !! Blessed are those who Live Out their Dreams.

Added: 2007-10-31

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Eastern Wy.: Devils Tower: Devils Tower

Soler Eclipse Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bigwally on 1990-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Amazingly Fun and Safe 5.11b Sport Climb in Crack World !!!

This is a Truly Wonderful, Fun, and Challenging route..I've done it numerous times and enjoyed it immensely everytime. The 1st pitch (5.11b) has several hard pulls, no outright easy moves, and thick, shiney bolts in all of the Right Places. The 2nd pitch (5.10a)is much easier, but the commitment level is higher as there are only 3 bolts. Currently the bolts are unlike the bolts on the 1st pitch and are of questionable character. (I will do my best to replace them with reliable pieces before this 2007 Season get underway.) Rapping at the end of the 1st pitch is readily done. When Your hands are too sore from jamming, this is a Lovely, FUN climb !!

Added: 2007-03-06

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Eastern Wy.: Devils Tower: Devils Tower

Durrance Route popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bigwally on 2004-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Yes, the most moderate route up Devils Tower !!! A Classic???? Perhaps, but the True Classic Line is WEISSNER, the route of the first climbing ascent. Climb it and gain a True Appreciation of the True Skill that was required in 1937. The climb of Classic Quality, rather than historic significance, is SOLER. In addition to two Excellent, Well Protected Pitches of secure jamming, it features a Marvelous, Spacey hanging belay. It also has historic significance as it was the first aid climb on the Tower (Tony Soler et.al.,1951) it was also the first aid climb to get free-climbed, on the Tower (Layton Kor & Ray Jaquot, 1959). DURRANCE Route is an over-crowded route with low aesthetic quality. Try WEISSNER to gain a High Sense of History or SOLER, for some Truly High Quality Climbing!!!!

Added: 2004-06-16

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Eastern Wy.: Devils Tower: Devils Tower

Bailey Direct Finish to Durrance Route popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bigwally on 2004-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Surely the ONLY way to finish up the DURRANCE Route. It is well-protected and Highy Enjoyable. If You think that its quicker or easier to hike across the Meadows and up the 3rd-class-thrash....Ya wrong!!

Added: 2004-06-16

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Eastern Wy.: Devils Tower: Devils Tower

Blade Runner Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1 A3+
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bigwally on 2004-03-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This is a Beautiful, slender aid crack. It goes 2, long, thin pitches that require ingenuity and cleverness (until it widens and leads to mixed climbing). It is steep and provides anyone that climbs it an excellent Big Wall Feeling...or Preview.

Added: 2004-03-19

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Eastern Wy.: Devils Tower: Devils Tower

Fritz's Fantasy Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bigwally on 2002-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

A Truly Lovely Route. 13 well-placed bolts protect this long pitch Marvelously. The climbing requires various face techniques and a little cleverness. The difficulty is pretty consistant and does not let up until the anchors, with a well protected "crux" at about mid-pitch height. This is a highly recommended route!!

Added: 2002-07-06