bkplmmns's Logbook (29 ascents)

Awesome climb.

This climb, below the second bolt, is a balance problem. It is more like a 5.7+.

Dirty climb, but fun. Great trad lead. Could probably finish in single pitch with long enough rope, but we split it into two pitches. Two pitons halfway up. Used those with stopper placements for belay anchor.

Second pitch is run-out. Although it isn't vertical, it could be bad if you took a fall.

5.7 is way off for this route. It is more like a 5.10- or 5.9+.

Heady 5.9.

Nice, easy intro to sport lead.

Excellent first sport lead.

Caution!! If you fall prior to the second bolt, there is a high potential for a ground fall.

This climb, like Freddie's Dead, is sandbagged. This one is a solid 5.5. Midway to the pins, there is a blank traverse to the right, and if you take a fall there, it will end your day. However, there is a strong crack prior to the traverse. I placed double protection there prior to venturing out onto the face. This climb is not clean and, therefore, most placements are questionable.

Used the pins to belay the second, but I added a couple chocks to surrounding cracks to enforce the pins. I would not belay off the pins alone.

You could probably single pitch this with a long enough rope. But, we split it into two pitches and walked off to the left after completion.

Fun, but dirty, climb. I disagree that protection placements are numerous. Plus, most placements are dirty placements, with a high potential for popping. However, this climb is not vertical, and is, therefore, a good first trad lead. I also disagree with the 5.2 grade. This climb is at least a 5.3 -- potentially a 5.4.